'So extraordinary it is almost unbelievable': The Aussie island you need to see yourself
TAKE a look around the island that Sir David Attenborough declared "so extraordinary it is almost unbelievable".
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WEDGED in the corner of a rough-hewed step, it takes us by surprise as we climb up from Middle Beach.
Plumped up with sooty-grey down fluttering in the breeze, the juvenile shearwater isn't perturbed by our presence as it gazes longingly out to sea.
Its fluffy cloak scarcely looks flight-worthy and I wonder how long it's been sitting here all alone, as I marvel at such a close encounter.
Lord Howe Island is that sort of place – unexpected brushes with nature at every turn.
It starts at the airport, where cows graze at the end of the runway, while the terminal resembles a country cottage behind its white picket fence.
Then there's my room with a view at luxury Capella Lodge.
Framed by floor-to-ceiling glass doors are the monumental twin peaks of Mt Lidgbird and Mt Gower rising up from the ocean. It's so compelling I can't bear to shut the curtains, and one morning, I postpone an early walk in favour of a cup of tea in bed soaking up the scene.
The same landscape captivates from the lodge restaurant and terrace, where a wet-edge plunge pool mirrors the mountain cleavage. Surrounding palm fronds rustle like raindrops and fragrant frangipanis add a tropical air.
Extensive use of glass and timber allows natural light to flood the open-plan bar, restaurant and lounge, where sleek sofas beckon with plump cushions in subtle seashell and palm motifs.
With a canvas of sandy neutrals, accented with aqua tones and a scattering of fresh hibiscus blooms, the resort exudes unpretentious, beachside chic, with service to match.
Capella is part of Baillie Lodges, a collection of luxury properties in locations of "unique natural significance".
There's no dispute Lord Howe is unique. Even David Attenborough declared it "so extraordinary it is almost unbelievable".
About 700km northeast of Sydney, the island was created by a hotspot volcano about seven million years ago. What remains above water is an 11km by 2km crescent of land fringed by the world's most southerly coral reef and washed by water so clear, it looks drinkable.
The World Heritage-listed island feels like a sleepy seaside village of yesteryear, with only 400 visitors permitted at a time, in addition to the 350-plus locals.
The speed limit is 25km/h, there is no mobile phone coverage, no one locks anything and children go barefoot to school.
Nearly two-thirds of the island is reserve and grassy beachfront verges, mown like carpet, and they beckon with park benches, picnic tables and barbecues.
A network of well-marked walking tracks crisscrosses the island and offer a range of short, easy strolls to the challenging hike of Mt Gower (875m).
Capella ensures guests experience the island's charm, starting with a tiki-tour by host Libby Grant, who gives a hilarious rundown on island life, from the four-bed hospital that discourages patients from overnight stays to the off-duty antics of the one policeman.
Back at the lodge we're kitted out with bicycles and snorkelling gear, while Libby organises boat tours.
The waters surrounding Lord Howe Island were declared a marine park in 1999 due to their biological diversity, including more than 500 species of fish and 90 species of coral. But it’s the water clarity I find extraordinary.
Pete Busteed of Islander Cruises takes us to North Bay Sanctuary, where green turtles graze the sea grass. Unusually, the turtles prove elusive, but it scarcely matters as I snorkel among iridescent moon wrasse, striped butterfly fish and dainty anemone fish.
Next day, we take a glass-bottom boat tour to Erscotts Hole with Dean Hiscox of Lord Howe Environmental Tours.
It's low tide and we skim the astrakhan-like gardens of plating, staghorn and cathedral corals in shades of yellow, pink and mauve, stippled with luxuriant mops of green turtle weed. While snorkelling, I encounter juvenile Galapagos sharks, double-header wrasse and a writhing ball of stripy catfish.
Another day, we cycle to Ned's Beach, where our Capella picnic pack awaits. We feed the fish in the shallows – silver drummer, trevally and mullet, which swarm around our feet in blur of splashing silver.
I pop $6 in the honesty box at the shed to hire a wetsuit and snorkel over coral gardens straight off the beach.
After a barbecue lunch of local kingfish and the chef's own pork and fennel sausages, we hike up Malabar Hill, which rewards with views along the island's spine to beaches on both sides. The cliffs here are home to hundreds of seabirds in season, including the red-tailed tropic bird.
Back at the lodge, I surrender to the nimble hands of Mia in the spa for a Kodo massage, inspired by Aboriginal techniques, before retiring to the lounge with other guests and indulging in one (OK, maybe two) of hostess Robin's innovative cocktail creations.
One evening, we listen to naturalist Ian Hutton, who gives a fascinating presentation on the island's evolution.
I mention the fledgling shearwater at Middle Beach and he says it had either left its burrow prematurely and was summoning the courage to fly, or was too malnourished to fly because of a stomach full of plastic (a growing problem for many seabirds).
As I recall the downy little chick, I sincerely hope it is the former. And at least I know Capella is committed to minimising their use of plastics.
* The writer was a guest of Capella Lodge.
GO2 - LORD HOWE ISLAND
GETTING THERE
QantasLink flies to Lord Howe Island from Sydney and Brisbane.
STAYING THERE
Capella Lodge hosts a maximum of 20 guests in five suite styles, including the sumptuous Lidgbird Pavilion. Packages include island transfers, breakfast, sunset drinks and canapes, and three-course dinners with wine. Until September 30, take advantage of free flights from Sydney or Brisbane with the Stay 7 Pay 6 package, from $4200 a person, twin share. The Sophisticated Solo Stay 4 Pay 3 package starts from $2100 a person for solo stays.
SEEING THERE
MORE
For more on plastic pollution affecting LHI sea birds visit jenniferlavers.org
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