Kentucky Derby one of those rare experiences where anything can happen and usually does
If you’ve been to a Melbourne Cup, you know it’s one of the great raceday parties. But as Glenn McFarlane reveals the Kentucky Derby in Louisville, USA, takes partying to a whole new level.
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It’s known as “the greatest two minutes in sport”, but in reality, the Kentucky Derby is more akin to a marathon for participants, pundits, punters and public alike.
Unquestionably, it is a survival of the fittest, and not for the faint-hearted.
There is barely a time to draw a breath, with a sensory overload guaranteed across five days of racing in Derby week, culminating with the Kentucky Oaks meeting on the Friday (with 13 races) and the Kentucky Derby meeting on the Saturday (another 14 races).
Like the Melbourne Cup half a world away (which is actually 14 years older), this is more than a race — it’s an experience. And though there are similarities between the two events, the uniqueness of the Kentucky Derby is unmistakeable.
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Louisville (don’t pronounce the ‘s’ if you want to impress locals) swells well in excess of its 600,000 residents, with visitors coming from all corners of the country — and the globe — to squeeze into Churchill Downs for that “First Saturday in May”.
After jealously watching it from half a world away, I was lucky enough this year to be on track with friends, including Shane Crawford and his school mates Grant Davies and Steve Cossettini, for an drama-filled, rain-soaked 145th Kentucky Derby.
And when I say “on track”, that’s precisely where we were.
Officials still allow a number of accredited people to stand on the edge of the dirt track — it was a slop this year — as the Derby field chases racing immortality.
Hunter S. Thompson once described the Kentucky Derby as “decadent and depraved”. While the event has transformed significantly since the late journalist/author uniquely documented the 1970 race, thankfully it has retained some of its free-spirited, almost chaotic feel.
Tickets range from the $100 offering in the “almost anything goes” atmosphere of the Infield — almost a rite of passage for US college students — where you can’t see a race but you can party — to the more highbrow $10,000 a slot section high in the grandstand in Millionaires’ Row, hosting the likes of US sports icons Tom Brady and Bill Belichick.
Fashion oscillates as wildly as ticketing. You can pretty much choose to wear whatever you wish, with vibrant colour clashes not only permissible, but encouraged.
New Yorker David “The Chief” Alcaro, who can be heard nights on SEN, has been to 21 consecutive Derbies.
“I’m 42, so I have been coming here for half my life, and I cannot come close to explaining how different the experiences can be,” Alcaro said.
“I reckon I’ve left the track in a every way imaginable — from the back of a pick-up truck, to a limousine, to a bus, to walking through the neighbourhood parties.
“I’ve been to the Melbourne Cup and it is great. But Melbourne is a city with so many massive events. This is all that Louisville has and it parties like no other.”
There are many things that make this event unique — from the ingrained greeting of “Happy Derby Day” from strangers, to the landmark twin spires that have adorned the grandstand since 1895.
Some traditions might seem quirky, but are as intoxicating as the Mint Julep — the drink of choice at the Derby since 1938, consisting of bourbon, mint and a sugar syrup. More than 125,000 are served over the two main days, and their sweet taste creeps up on unsuspecting revellers like a thief in the night.
Pre-race, there’s the stirring rendition of My Old Kentucky Home from University of Louisville Marching Band complete with the cacophony of the 150,000-strong crowd raising the hackles everywhere.
There’s the march of the competing horses — complete with owners — down the track before each race, as well as the garland of red roses reserved for the winner.
Thatâs a wrap on one of the best - & funniest trips - of my life, to the Kentucky Derby. Awesome experience with friends old and new. Thanks to those who made it happen @SCrawf9 & @GeganD - also @bradblanks, Cossie and others who made it so fun. Great time, great to be home again pic.twitter.com/OGuuGSuXW4
â Glenn McFarlane (@MaccaHeraldSun) May 9, 2019
There’s even the mad rush as soon as the Derby, which in run at 6.50pm local time, is over. While Melbourne Cup goers stay to chase a “get out” winner in the last couple of races, or if desperate at Ascot, the Kentucky Derby crowd heads for the exit as soon as the payouts are done on the feature event.
But they aren’t going home.
Watch it again....
â Kentucky Derby (@KentuckyDerby) May 4, 2019
65-1 Country House wins the Kentucky Derby after a disqualification of Maximum Security.pic.twitter.com/PeBAQXJwJb
Wow, got to meet legendary horse trainer Bob Baffert just hours ahead of his quest for another @KentuckyDerby success. Says he couldnât split his three Derby chances and had some amazing things to say about @winx_horse. Such a gentleman. pic.twitter.com/Gxy8VLoAqG
â Glenn McFarlane (@MaccaHeraldSun) May 4, 2019
Traditionally, most head across to the Rodman Street neighbourhood parties. The locals of South Louisville turn on the festivities quite literally in their frontyards, offering cheap Bud Lite, the best ribs in the region and pumping beats to provide the perfect end to the day.
This year’s race brought a controversial conclusion. Leading contender Maximum Security was first past the post, but became the first horse in history to be disqualified on race day after an agonising 22-minute objection. The 65-1 outsider Country House was declared the winner.
Boos echoed around Churchill Downs from those who had backed the winner.
But, in a further sign you can always expect the unexpected on Derby Day, one lucky punter managed to find two discarded tickets invested on Country House. His return: more than $US4000.