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Kylie Kwong’s journey through the western Sydney food scene has been a voyage of discovery of both cuisines and cultures

Drawing on her experiences as a Chinese Australian, Kylie Kwong has spent the past nine months exploring the food of western Sydney and the cultures and traditions that have helped shaped these diverse and delicious cuisines.

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Kylie Kwong may have hung up her apron but the acclaimed chef is as passionate about food and cooking as ever in her new role as an associate with the Powerhouse Museum.

Drawing on her experiences as a Chinese Australian, Kwong has spent the past nine months exploring the food of western Sydney and the cultures and traditions that have helped shaped these diverse and delicious cuisines.

She sees food as a vital way to connect communities and she wants to share her discoveries with others and continue to investigate the influence of food on the culture of Sydney.

1.How would you describe your role at the Powerhouse?

In my role as a Powerhouse Associate I have the incredible opportunity to continue my great passion of using food as a catalyst for positive social impact and cultural exchange.

This includes curating programs that celebrate food as a cultural touchstone, showcasing its power to unite communities and preserve traditions. Over the past nine months, I’ve witnessed first hand how food transcends boundaries. Collaborating with multigenerational families running beloved local eateries, I’ve been inspired by the deep respect and warmth embedded in these communities. Their dedication to tradition and openness to dialogue have profoundly shaped my work.

Chef and Powerhouse associate Kylie Kwong enjoys a traditional Korean feast with Jimin “Mama” Park. Picture: Toby Zerna
Chef and Powerhouse associate Kylie Kwong enjoys a traditional Korean feast with Jimin “Mama” Park. Picture: Toby Zerna

2. In this new role are you building on your knowledge of food and how we eat?

The programs at the Powerhouse explore how food reflects societal values, histories, and innovations, while engaging with local producers and chefs to highlight sustainability and entrepreneurship. I can delve deeper into the cultural significance of food and its evolving role in shaping community identities.

3. How did you learn about Hangang and Mama Park?

When I began my journey with Powerhouse Parramatta, I was eager to explore the

vibrant multicultural culinary landscape of western Sydney through the insights of those who know it best – the locals. I reached out to Kevin La, a highly respected and beloved western Sydney food content creator who has introduced me to numerous longstanding, family-run eateries, including Hangang by Mama Park in Strathfield.

4. What is it about Mama Park’s food and restaurant that makes it so special?

The moment I stepped into Hangang by Mama Park and met the owner and chef, Jimin “Mama” Park, I felt an instant soul connection. It was as if we had known each other for a thousand years. As a fellow cook and restaurateur, I could deeply relate to her journey and saw in her the reflection of my own mother: a gracious, hardworking and nurturing woman. Jimin embodies these qualities with her warm heart, tireless dedication, and ability to express love through her traditional, home style Korean dishes.

Mama Park’s creations carry an added depth of flavour because they are infused with her warmth and love for the community.

At 70 years old, Mama Park continues to amaze with her dedication. Alongside her 79-year-old husband, Song-Hee, she shops for fresh vegetables weekly, prepares and cooks everything herself, serves customers six days a week, and even handles the washing up — all on her own.

Meeting Mama Park was not just an encounter with an extraordinary chef but also a reminder of the power of respect, tradition, and community.

Kylie Kwong said Mama Park’s home made food has an extra depth of flavour as she infuses her dishes with warmth and love. Picture: Toby Zerna.
Kylie Kwong said Mama Park’s home made food has an extra depth of flavour as she infuses her dishes with warmth and love. Picture: Toby Zerna.

5. Traditional, family-run restaurants are so much a part of western Sydney. Why do new Australians often choose to open restaurants? 

Growing up in a large immigrant Chinese family, food was at the heart of our daily lives — a powerful expression of cultural identity and familial love. For many new Australians, opening restaurants becomes a meaningful way to share their heritage, create economic opportunities, and build connections within their communities.

Over my three decades as a restaurateur, I have cherished the opportunity to share the food of my Chinese heritage. I’ve witnessed first hand how food serves as a universal language — bridging cultural divides, breaking down barriers, and transforming restaurants into spaces for storytelling and the preservation of tradition.

In western Sydney, migrant-owned restaurants play a vital role in showcasing diverse culinary traditions while enriching the region’s vibrant and ever-evolving food scene.

I am passionate about highlighting the cultural significance of the many small, independent, family-run restaurants in western Sydney. These establishments are the heart and soul of the region.

Celebrated chef Kylie Kwong at the Parramatta Lanes food festival with the Powerhouse team including Powerhouse Lane creative director Tony Assness, Gillian Kayrooz (Vitocco curator) and Xinyi Lim (program manager). Picture: Supplied.
Celebrated chef Kylie Kwong at the Parramatta Lanes food festival with the Powerhouse team including Powerhouse Lane creative director Tony Assness, Gillian Kayrooz (Vitocco curator) and Xinyi Lim (program manager). Picture: Supplied.
Jimin “Mama” Park cooking with her family in Korea before emigrating to Australia. Picture: Toby Zerna.
Jimin “Mama” Park cooking with her family in Korea before emigrating to Australia. Picture: Toby Zerna.

TRADITIONAL COOKING

Cooking traditional, hand made, fresh Korean food takes a lot of energy but, despite being in their seventies, Jimin Park, known affectionately as Mama Park and her husband, Song Hee Park happily do so every day at their restaurant Hangang.

Mama Park emigrated to Australia in her twenties and always wanted to run a restaurant. She still loves seeing diners discover the dishes of her childhood and making people happy.

After a much-needed break in Korea with their daughters, Hangang reopens for business today. It is the most recent of the Park family’s restaurants. The first opened in 2014. Before that they ran a Korean side dish shop in Strathfield for years.

“It’s home cooked traditional Korean food and food I cook for my family,” Ms Park said. “It’s Korean cooking the way it should be done. Nothing fancy, everything is made by me and with my own hands.”

The self-taught chef created her dishes from memory.

“I immigrated to Australia when I was 26 years old. I missed my Mum and my family and I started cooking and asking my mum and sisters over the phone how to cook things. I cooked by remembering what my mum’s food back in Korea was like and tasted like,” she said. “ I enjoy hearing Korean diners comment on how it tastes like home and reminds them of their childhood. To know I made food with my own hands, I know what’s gone inside it and how much time and care it’s taken to make something and people appreciate it, it’s very fulfilling. That makes my heart happy.”

Some of the traditional Korean dishes created by Mama Park at Hangang in Strathfield. Picture: Toby Zerna.
Some of the traditional Korean dishes created by Mama Park at Hangang in Strathfield. Picture: Toby Zerna.

KYLIE KWONG’S TOP 10 WESTERN SYDNEY RESTAURANTS

1. Sun Ming BBQ – Hong Kong Cantonese, Parramatta

A longstanding favourite in Parramatta, renowned for its authentic

Hong Kong-style Cantonese cuisine, especially its expertly prepared BBQ meats like

roast duck and pork, as well as tender soy chicken with ginger and shallot,

comforting plain congee, wonton noodle soup and the signature Fried Sticky

Rice. The restaurant is praised for its generous portions, reasonable prices, and

family-like atmosphere, making it a go-to spot for locals seeking classic Cantonese

flavours.

Sun Ming BBQ Restaurant located on Church Street at Parramatta. Shops displaying hand written signs in front of windows that could allegedly be job advertisements.
Sun Ming BBQ Restaurant located on Church Street at Parramatta. Shops displaying hand written signs in front of windows that could allegedly be job advertisements.

2. Hangang By Mama Park – Traditional Korean, Strathfield

A family-run Korean restaurant in Strathfield, celebrated

for its authentic, home-style Korean dishes, all prepared using family recipes and

traditional methods. Mama Park is known for her delectable and generous version of

Bossam Steamed Pork, Raw Marinated Soy Crab, Beef Rib Soup and her freshly

made side dishes or ‘Banchan’ that accompany each meal. The restaurant is

especially popular among Korean patrons for its genuine flavours and is considered

a standout for those seeking a true taste of Korea in Sydney.

3. Chatkazz – Harris Park

A vibrant vegetarian Indian restaurant known for its

extensive menu featuring street food classics, pan-Indian specialties, and Indo-

Chinese fusion dishes. The restaurant is especially popular for its variety of chaats,

dosas and delicious versions of classics, pav bhaji, chhloe bhatura and paneer

paratha, offering a lively and authentic Indian dining experience. With options

catering to Jain, vegan, and no onion/garlic diets, Chatkazz is a favourite for diverse

groups seeking bold, spicy, and delicious Indian flavours.

A dosa and a range of dishes from Chatkazz at Harris Park. Picture: Supplied
A dosa and a range of dishes from Chatkazz at Harris Park. Picture: Supplied

4. Gursha Ethiopian – Blacktown

A warm, authentic Ethiopian dining experience,

featuring the traditional Ethiopian flatbread, injera, topped with a variety of

homestyle, richly flavoured stews including; Shiro Wot (spicy ground chickpeas) and

Doro Wot (spicy chicken stew). Or as a starter, crispy Sambossa (fried pastries) and

lamb shekla tibs as a main, served in a sizzling hot iron pan. The menu caters to

both vegan and non-vegan diners, reflecting the diversity of Ethiopian cuisine and

hospitality. Since opening in 2017, Gursha has become a local favourite for those

seeking soulful, organic, and genuinely prepared Ethiopian food.

5. Al Shami – Syrian, Merrylands

An authentic Syrian culinary experience, led by award-winning head chef Ali Snoubar, who brings over 25 years of expertise in

Middle Eastern cuisine. Everything is made from in-house, and the restaurant is

distinguished by its use of fresh, hand-selected ingredients found in traditional

recipes including – the Al Shami Mixed Mashawi, a generous platter of tender grilled

meat and chicken skewers, delicate, crispy falafel, Sujuk, spicy Turkish sausages,

Syrian baba ghannouj and Kashta ice cream, Syrian style with crunchy pistachios.

6. Pho Tau Bay – Vietnamese, Cabramatta

One of Cabramatta’s busiest and most beloved pho

restaurants, this institution consistently draws crowds for its old-school, high-quality Vietnamese comfort food and fresh, aromatic noodle soups. The restaurant is renowned for its

rich, aromatic Phó Bò Beef Combination broth making it a staple for pho enthusiasts

in Sydney’s vibrant Vietnamese community.

Nasi lemak with beef rendang at Temasek Parramatta. Picture: Supplied.
Nasi lemak with beef rendang at Temasek Parramatta. Picture: Supplied.
A mixed plate from Al Shami Syrian restaurant at Merrylands. Picture: Supplied.
A mixed plate from Al Shami Syrian restaurant at Merrylands. Picture: Supplied.

7. Gebran Lebanese Cuisine – Mount Lewis

Known for its traditional Lebanese dishes and a menu that highlights the rich flavours and textures of Lebanon, cooked with fresh local ingredients. The restaurant features a variety of mezze, grilled meats, seafood and classic desserts, all prepared from authentic recipes with

deep care. A lively and bright tasting Tabbouli, cloudlike hommos, delicate Warak

Inab (vine leaves stuffed with rice and herbs), super fresh version of Kibbeh Nayye

(fresh raw meat, finely blended with burghul and special condiments) and more-ish

salt and pepper quails. Its welcoming atmosphere and attentive service make it a

popular choice for family gatherings and celebrations.

8. Temasek – Singaporean-Malay, Parramatta

A longstanding institution specialising in Singaporean and Malaysian cuisine, Temasek is famous for its beef curry puffs, Hainanese chicken rice, laksa Singapura with chicken, and chilli crab. The restaurant is celebrated for its authentic flavours, generous portions, and a menu that captures the diverse culinary heritage of Singapore and Malaysia. For over three decades, Temasek’s consistent quality and bustling atmosphere have made it a favourite among locals and visitors seeking Southeast Asian comfort food.

Ataklet Be-yeayntu Ethiopian vegetarian combo served with injera bread, at Gursha Ethiopian Restaurant in Blacktown. Picture: Justin Lloyd
Ataklet Be-yeayntu Ethiopian vegetarian combo served with injera bread, at Gursha Ethiopian Restaurant in Blacktown. Picture: Justin Lloyd

9. Albee’s Kitchen – Malaysian, Campsie

This is a go-to spot for Malaysian food lovers, offering a wide

range of traditional dishes such as nasi lemak, char kway teow, Kuching laksa and

Penang-style curries. The restaurant is praised for its fresh, high-quality ingredients,

authentic taste, affordable prices, and extensive menu that caters to both Malaysian

expatriates and newcomers to the cuisine. Albee’s Kitchen is especially popular for

its homestyle cooking and vibrant, casual dining environment.

10. Chef Ceylon – Sri Lankan, Toongabbie

Bringing the bold and aromatic flavours of Sri Lankan cuisine to Sydney’s west, it features specialities like hoppers, kottu roti, lamprais and a wide array of spicy vegetable, meat and chicken curries. The restaurant is known

for its generous portions, authentic recipes, and a menu that caters to both

vegetarians and meat lovers. Chef Ceylon’s commitment to traditional Sri Lankan

cooking techniques and warm hospitality has earned it a loyal following among the

local community.

To learn more about Powerhouse Food programs, visit: powerhouse.com.au/food

Original URL: https://www.heraldsun.com.au/partner-content/kylie-kwongs-travels-through-the-western-sydney-food-scene-has-been-a-voyage-of-cuisines-and-cultures/news-story/ba95a1493c8f222cebc5c43879a51091