Home on the range with some of the Geelong region’s top chefs
One of Geelong’s most innovative chefs says he can’t live without having a jar of Nutella on hand — and it has given birth to one of of his customers’ favourite dishes.
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The Geelong region’s restaurants have a fabulous reputation for bringing tastes from around the globe to local tables, as well as selling the world on our amazing produce.
Driving this is a group of highly talented chefs. While their signature dishes may be instantly recognisable, they themselves may be less well-known.
So who are these kitchen visionaries? We set out to find who they are and why they do what they all do so well.
DAN HUNTER – BRAE
Current venue: Brae (Birregurra)
Where did you work previously?
I’ve worked and trained in both Australia and Europe, including an appointment as head chef at Mugaritz, Spain, during four years in that country. I spent six years leading the kitchen of Dunkeld’s Royal Mail Hotel, where I developed my first intensive organic kitchen garden program and took the establishment to its three-hat status. I commenced in kitchens full time in about 1997/98 and have been running Brae since 2013.
Describe your style of cooking
Clean and green. We cook a cuisine that highlights the Otways, with particular emphasis on our own farm.
What are you best known for?
Probably depends who you ask! Hopefully for the same as the answer to the last question.
What is the key to a good meal?
Details – from the chair to the company.
What can’t you do without in your kitchen and why?
My team. We do a lot for our guests and to be honest it’s many hands and enthusiasm for the work that brings my ideas to life. At home I’m pretty easy – a good pan, a spatula, a wooden spoon, a roasting tray and some knives. You can make many delicious and varied things with those.
Heaven on a plate for me is …
Barbecued southern rock lobster, garlic, parsley olive oil and cider vinegar. Or a good oyster.
BARRY IDDLES – 360Q OWNER
Current venue: 360Q (Queenscliff)
Where did you work previously?
Prior to owning 360Q I had an amazing restaurant, Bamboo, in Rye, Elk Restaurant at Falls Creek and also ran the food and beverage operation at the prestigious Sorrento Sailing Couta Boat Club. I’m a hands-on owner, chef, venue manager and event coordinator (and a bit of a workaholic).
Describe your style of cooking
I tend to lean more to Asian-style food and follow global trends. I love balanced flavours, with visual presentation a priority. Being well traveled I like to bring different flavours into our kitchen; prior to the pandemic I would take some of our chefs and team on trips to Asia, teaching them how to twist street food into amazing dishes
What are you best known for?
Our creative menu that changes with the season, great food, staff training, innovation, organisation and giving back to the community
What is the key to a good meal?
Great produce, fresh ingredients, balanced flavours and, of course, presentation. Even at home cooking for myself, it must look bloody amazing.
What can’t you do without in your kitchen and why?
Passion! Without it you are lost . Other things are a sharp knife, chopping board, pot, baking tray, whisk and bowl. With these items you can create anything.
Heaven on a plate for me is …
Pork belly cooked perfectly, a little sticky jus and my daughter’s smoked pineapple salsa.
JULIAN BARBAGALLO - I RAGAZZI OWNER
Current venue: I Ragazzi (Newtown)
Where did you work previously?
I started making pizzas at the age of 18 at Alfios, El Toros, Pizzeria Adamo. I spent two years in London before starting my chef’s apprenticeship at Kaprica and Two Sugars.
Describe your style of cooking
It’s the casalinga home style Italian style cooking. My pizzas are thin and crispy but are light and fluffy.
What are you best known for?
I Ragazzi is best known for the pappardelle duck ragu and the Mr Barbs pizza finished with Nutella cannoli.
What is the key to a good meal?
Good flavours, good quality ingredients and a lot of love.
What can’t you do without in your kitchen and why?
Good quality flour and a jar of Nutella. Good flour to make a nice pizza or bread and a jar of Nutella because I can’t live without my Nutella.
Heaven on a plate for me is …
A home-cooked chicken cottoletti meal from my Nonna. It is the exact same thing every time and there are endless amounts in the fridge.
IVAN ROIANOV – LAGO AT LONSDALE LINKS EXECUTIVE CHEF
Current venue: Lago at Lonsdale Links, (Point Lonsdale)
Where did you work previously?
Head Chef at Terindah Estate on the Bellarine Peninsula. Before I arrived in Australia I was chef de cuisine at the Warwick hotel group in Dubai. Before the Middle East I used to travel around eastern Europe – Italy, Spain, Croatia and Montenegro.
Describe your style of cooking
Classic culinary techniques with mixed flavours from around the globe that also respect local produce.
What are you best known for?
Opening something new or resetting something that existed, be it a restaurant, winery or golf club. I am keen for new culinary challenges.
What is the key to a good meal?
Quality primary ingredients and a piece of soul in each dish.
What can’t you do without in your kitchen and why?
Most important – your team. You can be an amazing chef but without the support of people with the same way of thinking it will be difficult to manage kitchen operations. I am lucky enough to have a strong team behind me.
Heaven on a plate for me is …
Cheese … with wine.
ANDY SYMEONAKIS - HEAD CHEF 1915
Current venue: 1915 (North Geelong)
Where did you work previously?
I grew up in the country, working for my parents at the Renmark Hotel in South Australia. I then moved to Adelaide for a number of years, then to Sydney where I worked for fine dining steakhouse Kingsleys Steak & Crabhouse in Wolloomooloo. Then I moved to Melbourne to work with George Colambaris at Hellenic Republic in Brunswick, before becoming head chef at the Lorne Hotel in 2020. In between that I did a stint at Hotel Argentina, a new franchise/spin off from former Hellenic Republic head chef Dan Swarcz.
Describe your style of cooking
I’d say very simple. Just simple, nice flavours, cooked well. I’m passionate about people sitting down with friends and family and sharing a meal. Yeah, I think that’s the whole concept behind my food.I love the concept of just coming in, let me feed you, just enjoy yourself. Good simple, honest food.
What are you best known for?
Probably my meat. Meat, steaks, lots of different proteins. I like the opportunity just to do whatever I want, I hate serving the same things. I’ve got relationships with all the farmers, all the different people, the suppliers, the people that live in the middle of nowhere that have exclusive products that no one knows about.
What is the key to a good meal?
At the moment, I’d say it’s having good chefs behind you to put it all together. The biggest and hardest thing at the moment in our industry, as all of us know, is finding good staff. I’m very lucky I’ve got four people that are on my level and we’re an awesome team, so I’m very thankful for that. My team members have travelled from Sydney and Melbourne to work with me here so, yeah, I’ve got a wonderful team.
What can’t you do without in your kitchen and why?
My team, that’s it. It doesn’t matter what equipment you’ve got, what produce, whatever ... it doesn’t make a difference. If you’ve got good staff, good team, you can make it, you can come up with everything.
We’ve all worked in kitchens where you get told what to do every day and that’s it. It’s just one thing, one set menu and that’s it, you can’t change anything. Here, every day with Feed Me menu option, whatever’s available, whatever a farmer is offering, whatever is in season I tell the team “make something” and that works well, makes things pretty cool.
Heaven on a plate for me is …
Probably just eating at my grandmother’s, I think. She’s 85 years old now, and I think if I can go home as many times as I can, which isn’t that often at the moment, and just sitting down with her, being with my grandparents is just the best thing, along with my kids.
And we eat lots of garlic. We grow a lot of garlic. My grandfather eats a whole bulb a day and he’s 85 and he still works on the farm every day, you know so yeah that’s it for me.
DWAYNE BOURKE – JACK RABBIT VINEYARD EXECUTIVE CHEF
Current venue: Jack Rabbit vineyard (Curlewis)
Where did you work previously?
I have been with the Sharp Group for over seven years, opening Flying Brick Cider house in 2014, then moving over to Jack Rabbit Vineyard as executive chef as well as overseeing Curlewis Golf Club kitchens. Prior to that I have worked in Melbourne, (Pure South, The Argo and Upper Lower House), regional Victoria (Pettavel Winery, Mansion Hotel, Sunnybrae) and Tasmania (Piermont Retreat).
Describe your style of cooking
French/European driven modern Australian. Fresh is best.
What are you best known for?
At work I’m known for flavour-focused food with a big emphasis on as much local produce as possible and minimal environmental impact. At home I’m known for my really bad Dad jokes.
What is the key to a good meal?
Good ingredients and restraint. Find the best product available and don’t over complicate it.
What can’t you do without in your kitchen and why?
Murray river salt. Seasoning is key to cooking and the mineral content of the Murray River salt helps lift food to another level. I grew up on the Murray River so I also have a personal affinity.
Also a team of like minded people to help me deliver my vision from a work perpective.
Heaven on a plate for me is …
My ideal three-course meal would be seared local scallops with Jerusalem artichoke puree and truffle as entrée, confit duck leg with lentils, bacon and pinot glaze for main and lemon tart with vanilla bean ice cream for dessert.
SUSAN BALLAGH – PORTARLINGTON GOLF CLUB DESSERT CHEF
Current venue: Portarlington Golf Club (Portarlington)
Where did you work previously?
I started as a kitchen hand at Portarlington, then started an adult appreticship and now I’m their head dessert chef.
Describe your style of cooking
Sweets, anything baking-related.
What are you best known for?
My desserts.
What is the key to a good meal?
Keep flavour nice and simple, not overpowering and confusing.
What can’t you do without in your kitchen and why?
The Kenwood mixer makes baking life easier and does everything I need.
Heaven on a plate for me is …
Mixed dessert platter of everything from cheesecakes to chocolate desserts and pastries.
WILL MOYLE - THE CONTINENTAL/LOU’S PIZZA & WINE HEAD CHEF
Current venue: Lou’s Pizza & Wine/The Continental
Where did you work previously?
Donovans (St Kilda), Ciao Cielo (Port Melbourne), Oakdene (Bellarine Peninsula), Terindah estate (Bellarine), Neighbour Geelong (Newtown) and Noble Rot (Point Lonsdale).
Describe your style of cooking
My interpretation of classic dishes, inspired by stunning produce that aims to hit the plate both visually stunning and delicious as a must.
What are you best known for?
My passion for all things food and wine, my dedication to learning as much about hospitality as possible and the ability to appeal to a broad range of palates with my cooking.
What is the key to a good meal?
Providing a dining experience that evokes emotion. Emotion can be connected with memories of a joyful occasion, like a childhood meal, travelling or time with a special person in your life. Good food and wine is present in so many important parts of life. The emotion that a good meal provides can be held onto for a lifetime.
What can’t you do without in your kitchen and why?
I can’t do without other chefs. Chefs – whether they are local, domestic or international – provide great inspiration and a drive for me to do better personally, as well as train my staff better so there are more quality chefs in region that in the future may provide even more quality restaurants to eat at, providing inspiration for future generations of chefs.
Heaven on a plate for me is ….
Steak frites and bearnaise sauce with a generously dressed salad of crunchy leaves and acidic dressing.
MATT PODBURY – LA CACHETTE OWNER
Current venue: La Cachette (Geelong waterfront)
Where did you work previously?
I’ve had a fantastic career so far. I’ve worked in many countries and have had the opportunity to travel and see much of the world. I finished my apprenticeship at the Station Hotel working for the mighty Sean Donovan and Jake Young; they consistently set the standards for pub cookery in Australia.
After that was some time in Puglia in the south of Italy, then to London to work for Tom Sellers at Restaurant Story, followed by a stint for Gorgio Locatelli and the institution that is Locanda locatelli. I was then lucky enough to bag a position working at Lyles in Shoreditch in its first 18 months. It went on to obtain one Michelin star and place No.33 in the world’s 50 best restaurants. It’s a very special restaurant and many of the lessons passed on from James Lowe stay with me today.
Then after a short break in Tasmania, I returned to France to work for Matthieu Rostaing-Tayard at Le Cafe Sillon in Lyon. Matthieu is a fundamental player in the bistronomy movement in France. The food was so simple, but taken to an almost otherworldly level with his level of finesse and understanding of flavour and balance. It was a super eye opening experience for me, and something everyday I look to for inspiration and guidance at La Cachette.
I returned to Australia and found myself working for Matt Germanchis and Gemma Gange at Captain Moonlite, perhaps one of the most special restaurants in Victoria in recent memory.
Describe your style of cooking
If I have a style of cooking, it’s deeply deeply influenced by where I’ve worked. The constant theme of the places I’ve worked would be restaurants devoted to sourcing incredible produce, and cooking with integrity and love.
At La Cachette we change the menu every three weeks, but it’s not uncommon for dishes to change and evolve day to day within that structure. It allows us to cook with the seasons and only use produce at the pinnacle of their seasonal arc.
What are you best known for?
I don’t think I’m “known for anything”. I’d like to think the people who’ve dined at La Cachette know that they can come in and have a delicious, well considered meal and some interesting wine for an affordable price.
To me, bistronomy, means being able to have a high quality meal, made with care, stripped of all the faff and at a price you can come back again and again.
What is the key to a good meal?
For me it’s simple. Nourishment. You can get too carried away trying to over-engineer food, adding too many ingredients, too many techniques.
A balance of salt/fat/acid helps tremendously, and timing is crucial as well, but nothing beats honest cooking. A classic case of less is more.
What can’t you do without in your kitchen and why?
At La Cachette, the one thing I can’t do without is my partner in life and the kitchen, Joanna.
She’s a weapon, we arrive in the shop at stupid o’clock most mornings, and considering it’s just the two of us, there’s a lot of humble, unglamorous work.
From the minute we turn the lights on she’s pushing on. She takes complete control over the pastry work, and she absolutely bosses it. Technically very talented and always trying to improve and learn.
I love working with her and we make a good team. So much of what we can do at La Cachette is because of her, and how hard she works, and I am unbelievably grateful.
Heaven on a plate for me is …
I’m obsessive/fanatical about sausages. For me particularly, I’m mad about boudin noir or blood sausage. If I see it on a restaurant’s menu I’ll order it.
A lovely bit of boudin noir, with a nice and crispy exterior, soft fatty interior layered up with a couple of gooey fried eggs, some buttered toast and a bit of brown sauce, for me, is 100 per cent my death row meal.
Originally published as Home on the range with some of the Geelong region’s top chefs
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