The best things I had to eat and drink in Tasmania

Launceston and Hobart are magnets for those who appreciate fine food, wine and spirits. This is what topped my list on a recent trip to Australia's southern island.

 On a recent trip I feasted on local produce, sampled whiskey straight from the barrel, watched gin being distilled, savoured flights of different flavours, then rolled myself from wine tastings to chef’s menu lunches, to kitchen gardens to cocktail bars. One thing’s for sure, Tasmania should be as famous for its food and produce as it is for its fresh air and sensational natural landscapes.

1. If there’s one restaurant you must try in the Tamar Valley it’s Timbre Kitchen. Shared dining is encouraged and you’ll want it so you can try the grilled cheese with mustard pickle, the blue eye trevalla crudo with purple daikon and the wood fired chicken with almond and salsa verde. For dessert, the fluffy miso caramel mousse topped with shards of honeycomb and brown butter crumble is remarkable. The umami flavour of miso cuts through the sugar so it’s not too sweet. 

2. Will Horan, formerly a guide on the Overland Track, spent many hiking hours dreaming of brewing beer. His newly opened Launceston venue, Du Cane Brewery and Dining Hall, is the dream come true, for him and for locals. We matched an Ascending Falling Mountain PILS (an afternoon beer like a traditional German hops) with a Good Game pizza  - thin slices of cured wallaby meat, scamorza and basil on a thin crust. I can also recommend The Earth; potato, rosemary, garlic, pecorino and mozzarella. 

The beer in question. Photo: Du Cane Brewing

3. It was impossible to choose between a croissant and a morning bun from Bread and Butter. I had both, two mornings in a row, with no regrets. The traditionally made croissant consists of fine layers with an excellent crunchy casing. Similar crispy pastry envelops the morning bun, which is then sugared to perfection.

4. Dining in the Cellar Room, built underneath an 1830s flour mill at Stillwater, is enchanting. This casual fine diner has captivating views of the Tamar River. I had plump scallop and prawn dumplings with roasted garlic and black vinegar followed by pan fried Pink Ling on a bed of squid ink rice, topped with a piquant fennel emulsion. There was dark chocolate tart with burnt caramel, coffee cremeaux and wattleseed with hazelnut ice cream for dessert.

5. At Stoney Rise Wine Company I had a self-guided tasting flight in an architecturally designed room overlooking farmland, Gravelly Beach and the Tamar River. The Holymans make interesting wines because that’s what they want to drink. Try their Gruner Veltliner or the Trousseau. 

A bottle of Holyman to go with their snack menu. Photo: Stoney Rise Wine Company

6. A distillery tour of Turner Stillhouse and a tasting flight of the Three Cuts Gin is a must. The Barrel Rested Gin has cinnamon, clove and nutmeg and is excellent served with ginger ale and a slice of orange. The Founder’s Release is a fragrant floral mix of three varieties of rose and twelve botanicals. The Distiller's Release receives accolades at the Australian Gin Awards. 

7. With over 80 whiskey distilleries on the island, it’s no surprise that my whiskey palate developed further during this trip. Halfway between Hobart and Launceston at Callington Mill Distillery, a guided tour introduced me to the Dark Secret, a whiskey designed to complement Hobart’s Dark Mofo event. This complex winter warmer has creamy butterscotch, toffee and chocolate elements.

Tasmanian Single Malt. Photo: Callington Mill Distillery

8. Lunch at the Agrarian Kitchen starts with a garden tour. Nettle appears on our plates, floral garnishes adorn our drinks and the sugar snap peas are so fresh we can almost remember seeing them on the vine outside. When masterfully kissed by the woodfire oven, paired with the smoked fish mousse and sprinkled with paprika, they are sublime.

9. At Institute Polaire a gin bramble made from Sud Polaire, the house’s award winning Antarctic-inspired gin, is complemented by an array of entrees. Bottarga toast with whipped cod roe looks like a tiny birthday cake and the chicken Parfait Eclair with spiced cherry is a snack fit for a magazine shoot. 

10. Peppina in Hobart is a stunning modern restaurant brimming with energy. For dinner, light pillows of fluffy gnocchi come in a bubbling sugo topped with a blanket of melted cheesy goodness. Kingfish arrives with shaved fennel and citrus dressing, and scallops are served in their shells with almond, chilli and baked breadcrumbs.

The scallops are served in their shells with almond, chilli and baked breadcrumbs. Photo: Peppina

Escape route

Book flights to Tasmania with Virgin Australia. They currently operate up to 101 return services per week into Tasmania, with 39 direct services into Launceston and 62 direct flights to Hobart.

Traveller’s tips: 

Book a car and accommodation in advance. Rentals are still in short supply since the pandemic. 

Stay:

Peppers Silo Hotel Launceston

Hotel Verge Launceston

Macq01 Hobart

For more information: 

Check out the Discover Tasmania website.

This writer was a guest of Virgin Australia and Tourism Tasmania.

Originally published as The best things I had to eat and drink in Tasmania