How the quintessential tastes of Australia have been captured in craft beer

With native botanicals including lemon myrtle, wattle and Geraldton wax, one craft brewery is leading the way to capture the quintessential Australian beer.

There are plenty of contenders out there for what might be considered the most quintessentially Australian beer.

By numbers alone it could be the top-selling Great Northern Super Crisp Lager. By history, surely it’s Cascade, the country’s oldest continually operating brewery. It’s hard to think of brands more iconic than the XXXX and VB cans. Or perhaps the crown should go to Stone and Wood for pioneering the uniquely Australian Pacific Ale.

But Western Australian newcomer Spinifex Brewing Co. has a claim that is as strong as any, with its Taste of Australia range that incorporates Australian botanicals including lemon myrtle, wattle and Geraldton wax into traditional beer styles such as summer, amber and pale ales.

The idea came from Noongar man Mick Little and his mate, police officer turned brewer John Gibbs, who started playing around with flavours and ingredients that have been staples in Indigenous food for thousands of years.

The Spinifex Brewery team: Adam Barnard CEO, Mick Little Founder and Director, Steve Jansen Communications Manager, Robert Dann – Spinifex Supplier, John Gibbs Brewing Director.

After a couple of years of experimentation they were joined by Broome-based former soldier Adam Barnard, who saw the potential to create “a whole new genre of craft beer that had never really been done before”, while also giving a boost to Indigenous business, opportunity and employment by sourcing locally made ingredients and injecting money into local communities.

“The botanicals are a great passion of John Gibbs, our head brewer, so he is constantly experimenting with other botanicals we can use, all native to Australia,” says Spinifex CEO, Barnard. “There is a lot more to be done and we will keep putting out some new beers and new recipes and the best performing ones will go into our core range and others may be seasonal.”

Australian Army veteran Barnard was also determined to honour his comrades and brother-in-law, who committed suicide after suffering post-traumatic stress disorder from his service in Afghanistan. Half of the profits from every F88 lager sold goes to support military challenges. The combination of the military aspect, supporting Indigenous opportunities and the unique beers made for a compelling story and Barnard says the reaction was ecstatic when they launched in February 2020, only to grind to a halt a month later when Covid-19 shut the country down.

The beer range from West Australian craft beer company Spinifex Brewing.

After a brief pivot to producing hand sanitiser, Barnard says the company has roared back with its Taste of Australia range winning medals in the prestigious London Beer Competition, and the Western Australia Pale Ale infused with Geraldton wax taking out a silver medal at this year’s Perth Royal Beer Awards.

But as worthy as the causes behind them might be, Spinifex is acutely aware they count for little if the beers don’t resonate with the drinking public and the experimentation continues to balance innovation with accessibility.

“It’s really interesting how positively it has been received,” says Barnard. “Over time we have dialled back the strength of some of the native ingredients to make it more mainstream. We have pretty dizzying heights set and we want to make sure our beer is drinkable for the majority, not just the minority that might enjoy craft.”

HOMEGROWN HEROES

Smart Craft Beer Club’s resident expert Michael Taberner picks some Aussie classics.

MODUS XPA: Thanks largely to Balter’s XPA, the “Extra Pale Ale” style has really taken off in the past few years. Despite most breweries having a version in their core range, the Modus XPA stands above. Tropical, easy drinking, and low cal, crisp, clean finish – this is a beer that has become a Friday go-to. A great knock-off-work beer for while you’re cooking the barbecue, watching the footy or when your meal has just been picked up from the restaurant, it’s hard to beat an XPA.

SAUCE CARIBBEAN FOG HAZY PALE ALE: I like to think of Hazy Pales as the sessionable, first generation Australian cousins of a US style NEIPA. Some tropical citrus, mellowed out by the hazy complexion, it’s very easy to drink and a great and approachable beer. Perfect for Australian summers, no wonder this style is growing momentum across the country as brewers are putting their own spin on traditional styles.

WAYWARD EVERYDAY LAGER: Brewed for the everyday Aussies, here’s a beer you can get behind if you want a beer that tastes like, well, beer. It’s less challenging on the palate than a more traditional pilsner, is very familiar, and still made with high-quality ingredients. A traditional lager holds a soft spot for most Aussie beer fans, and this one still lets you support a local independent business. What’s not to love?

BEER DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR

Visit smartcraftbeer.com.au to join the SMART Craft Beer Club and access the following offers.

● Always Awesome Mixed 8 Pack: order now and get 2x beers free. $59 + shipping

● Best Bargain Beer Box: Get a case of Stockade 8 Bit IPA for $69 + shipping (40 per cent off RRP)

● Pale Ale Pleaser: 10 Pack. $49 + shipping

Scan to go to smartcraftbeer.com.au