The lowdown 

In a city like Rome, where ritzy hotels are as abundant as ancient ruins, finding a stylish, budget-friendly stay can feel like a biblical task. So I was as smug as an emperor's first-born-son at finding Palazzo Montemartini. Set in an opulent 19th century palace near Termini Station, this five star hotel offers all the trimmings you’d expect from a luxury Roman holiday, without the eye-watering price tag.

Set the scene

With its soaring neoclassical columns, terrazzo floors and wall-to-wall library, the foyer of this Radisson Collection hotel is so spectacular, it’s become a favourite backdrop for the Italian film and TV industry. Its 82 rooms and suites are equally beautiful, mixing contemporary furnishings with flourishes of marble, leather and parquet. Deep below the hotel is a cavernous Roman spa, paying homage to the nearby Baths of Diocletian; the perfect spot to decompress after exploring the city on foot.

On arrival

“Buon giorno, signora,” the hotel manager Marco Luzietti calls out across the foyer. It’s a sticky 29 degrees at 4pm, and Termini Station is heaving with traffic, but passing through the hotel doors is like immediately flicking the switch from chaos to calm. The kind and efficient staff swiftly arrange check in and whisk away my luggage. Feeling lighter already, I saunter over to the adjacent Senses Restaurant for my welcome drink, an expertly mixed dirty martini—enjoyed amidst a magnificent forest of Roman columns and a cascading waterfall fountain. Afterwards, I leaf through the impressive library of art and design books in the sitting room before heading upstairs to my suite.

The room 

As a self-confessed design lover (especially when it comes to Italian mid-century), my ‘Collection Room’ gets the tick of approval. It’s light and bright, with blonde hardwood flooring and a sophisticated palette of brown, white and grey, with contemporary art adding pops of colour. Particularly special is the leather bed-frame which wraps around the bedding like a cocoon, and the curved wooden wardrobe which bisects the bedroom and bathroom (also housing a well-stocked mini bar). The bathroom is spacious, with lovely stone finishes and an enormous waterfall shower. For a little more wow factor, the Skylight Suite offers beautiful views of Rome, plus a gorgeous sun-washed winter garden, perfect for an afternoon campari spritz.

The spa

After settling into my room, I plunge into the warm waters of the hotel’s Cashera Spa. Inspired by the nearby Baths of Diocletian, once the largest imperial baths in the ancient world, this calming wellness space features heated pools, a Turkish bath, sauna, salt rooms, chromotherapy sensory showers and much more. Twenty euro ($32) per person grants you two hours of access. For the full Roman experience try The Ritual, a special massage based on ancient fighting practices, where athletes would sprinkle their body with a substance called “ceroma”, made of oil and wax, followed by sand to reduce slipping. The mixture is removed with the strigile (a bronze spatula), leaving your skin silky smooth. Unlike the Roman warriors, it ends with a relaxing full body massage.

The restaurant 

Primped and primed after my two hour soak, I take a seat for dinner at Senses Restaurant, a jaw-droppingly beautiful space with impossibly high ceilings, historic columns and a spectacular fountain. But the food and service are memorable too, so much so that local families dine alongside hotel guests. Senses offers contemporary retellings of traditional Italian cuisine, like tonnarello with rabbit ragù and fava bean puree, or crispy red mullet fish with vignarola, a traditional Roman vegetable medley. Breakfast is also served at Senses, featuring an abundant buffet of sweet and savoury options. Enjoy it outside on the terrace, gazing out at the remains of the Servian wall dating back to the 4th century BC, one of the many assets—new and old—that make this property so unique.

What’s hot 

Their dreamy rooftop terrace looks out over a maze of Roman rooftops (open May-September). Head up at dusk for a Negroni and watch the sunset over the eternal city. 

What’s not 

While the hotel itself is a calm oasis, the area around Termini Station is a little chaotic and dingy at times. Rome is certainly not for the faint hearted.

The verdict: 8.5/10

Balancing old-world Roman grandeur and sleek, modern aesthetics, this beautifully presented five-star hotel is excellent value for money compared to many of the city’s big brand luxury offerings. 

Rooms start at $517 per night. 

The writer was a guest of Palazzo Montemartini.