Why bugs could be the secret to better skin
Yes, you read that correctly
Lifestyle
Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News.
The microbiome has become as big a news in skincare as it is in wellness. So what exactly can microbiome skincare products do for your skin?
We've been nibbling on kefir and chugging bottles of Yakult in hopes of aiding our digestion for decades. But in 2023, ingredients like prebiotics, probiotics and ferments have lept from our plates and into our serums and moisturisers. It’s a big shift from the skin-stripping acids and hard-core anti-ageing retinols and retinoids of the last few years and there’s some complicated science behind the skincare trend. So how can a moisturiser help you on your quest for glowing skin?
"The skin's microbiome is basically a combination of bacteria, yeast and fungi that live on the skin," explains Dr Ritu Gupta, of Platinum Dermatology Sydney. While they might sound off-putting, these bugs, yeasts and fungi are essential to gut and complexion health. If we look at bacteria alone, there are over 1 billion microbes per square centimetre of skin on our face (whether we’re comfortable with that idea or not).
"They live in harmony with us and contribute to the innate immune response between our skin and the world around us," says Gupta.
Like what you see? Sign up to our bodyandsoul.com.au newsletter for more stories like this.
There’s evidence that disruption of the microbiome is a contributing factor to many skincare disorders. Gupta notes “atypical” microbiomes are observed in patients with skin conditions as varied as acne and rosacea to dermatitis and eczema. “Certainly, we know that disordered skin for instance in people with atopic dermatitis and eczema is related to a disordered skin microbiome which contributes to disordered barrier function and increased risk of infection,” explains Dr Gupta. She emphasises though that the skin microbiome is not a static thing; it’s something that changes with age, genetics, ethnicity, the climate you’re living in and the site of the body.
While there's strong evidence that probiotics and ferments can assist with gut health, their inclusion in skincare is pretty recent. "It's an area of relatively new research," says Gupta, noting that most of the research going into the creation of skincare products is built off the back of work that has been done on understanding the gut microbiome, however there is evidence that adding strains of bacteria like probiotics, and using gentle products designed to protect and support these strains should be a goal when supporting good skin health.
Dr Gupta says that probiotics are known to modulate the skin’s immune response, and “compete” with unfriendly pathogenic bacteria that causes a myriad of problems on the epidermis. There is strong evidence that they can balance inflammatory response by blocking the release of “cytokines”. Given controlling inflammation is believed to be key to the treatment of many skin disorders, including simple ageing, the inclusion of probiotics in skincare is exciting for anyone on the quest for a glowing complexion (that’s all of us).
While research is early, beauty brands are investing in microbiome skincare. Rob Calcraft founded his second skincare line Cultured in 2021, says he fell in love with the microbiome when he realised its importance to skin strength and resilience. "It's a biological shield that maintains a strong skin barrier," he explains, "it plays many different roles from natural hydration, UV protection, skin renewal and healing."
Cultured skincare products are focused on prebiotics and yeasts that provide food for the micro-organisms in the microbiome. The brand includes fermented forms of microalgae, food bacterium lactococcus lactis found in yoghourts, cheeses and sauerkraut and prebiotic inulin to fuel the biome.
Emma Lewisham, whose eponymous skincare line Emma Lewisham has recently launched in the UK, has just released the brand's first acne-target treatment using a patented live strain probiotic. She said when the brand was looking to create a product for acne that would align with the brand's skin friendly ethos all roads lead back to the microbiome.
Probiotics are difficult to include in skincare products because they are unstable; they’re live micro organisms and once they are mixed with other skincare ingredients they have a short shelf life. Advances made by skincare companies like Emma Lewisham are exciting because they’re one of the most promising ingredients in the microbiome skincare space - the brand’s serum has a shelf life of two years, and carefully designed packaging that means the probiotic solution is mixed fresh with every pump of product.
Ultimately Lewisham believes the increased interest in microbiome skincare has been triggered by an increased interest in holistic health generally. "People want something that's going to prevent acne and blemishes but also improve the quality of the skin. They don't want to use a product that dries out blemishes but then leaves the rest of the skin stripped and impacted,” Lewisham told Body+Soul.
So, what are the best microbiome skincare products you can shop in 2023? We've rounded them up.
The best microbiome skincare products
Emma Lewisham, The Supernatural Blemish Serum, $135 from emmalewisham.com
The Supernatural Blemish Serum heralds a transition from stripping anti-acne actives to balancing elixirs that achieve potent results by restoring skin to peak health. The key ingredient here is the brand's patented Q4 live probiotic, which delivers 235 million live probiotic cells per dose and activates once in contact with the skin, entering the microbiome's natural cycle. The serum targets blemishes, blackheads and blocked pores but is effective for any complaint.
Cultured, Biome One The Rich Cream, $107 from mecca.com
Designed for dry and stressed-out skin, this cream uses a fermented lipid phytosphingosine, made more bioavailable through fermentation processes, to provide a potent and protective shield for the complexion.
Benton, Fermentation Eye Cream, $35 from amazon.com
This eye cream contains multiple ferments to strengthen the delicate under-eye area, accompanied by ceramides that firm and plump the skin, anti-ageing peptides and skin-strengthening ceramides.
Agent Nateur, (aime) Probiotic Deodorant, $43 from net-a-porter.com
Upgrade your regular underarm beauty routine with this clever skincare-inspired aluminium-free deodorant. While natural deodorants get controversial reviews, this deodorant harnesses the power of probiotics to neutralise odour-causing bacteria. Saccharomyces ferment, and lactobacillus acidophilus boost the production of lactic acid. This element can prevent the overgrowth of pathogens that cause unwanted smells throughout the day. The refreshing scent of natural grapefruit, jasmine and neroli oils will make you feel like you're on holiday.
Allies of Skin, Prebiotics & Niacinamide Pore Refining Booster, $117 from mecca.com
This lightweight serum is perfect for oily and acne-prone skin types and blends prebiotics and probiotics in one complex. These biome boosters are combined with 10 per cent brightening and oil-regulating niacinamide and soothing vitamin E.
Fresh, Black Tea Kombucha Facial Treatment Essence, $58 from sephora.com
Turns out kombucha is as good for our skin as it is for our guts, and this potent elixir is packed with double-fermented kombucha and boosted with antioxidant-rich black tea. Splash on before your serums for supple, luminous skin.
Aspect, Probiotic Mask, $69 from adorebeauty.com
Stressed-out skin? This sleeping mask from the cosmeceutical skincare range Aspect provides emergency relief for dry, dehydrated and reactive complexions. With two different probiotic strains, vitamin B5, olive, argan and sunflower seed oil and a gentle fruit enzyme complex, the creamy, rich mask will help your complexion zen out.
For more of our top picks, head to bodyandsoul.com.au/beauty
More Coverage
Originally published as Why bugs could be the secret to better skin
Brutal call Aussie pet owners are being forced to make
Pets are often part of the family but there is a growing trend that is forcing Aussies to make a heartbreaking call.
The extreme wellness trends billionaires swear by
Are they taking wellness too far?