Whisky lover’s guide to Melbourne
FORGET the whiskies that triggered a teenage hangover. Melburians are seeking out smooth drams that are full of flavour. AFL legends Adam Cooney and Brian Lake try some of the best.
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AS temperatures plummet and Melbourne finds itself in the grip of a winter chill, the trickle of heat from a great whisky is the perfect antidote to a cold, wet night.
Something both reassuring and sophisticated seems to be emerging in the form of richly rounded single malts which have made their way predominantly from the distilleries of Scotland to the coastal capital of Victoria.
Far from being consigned to old man pubs, there has been a resurgence of love for whisky in Melbourne — particularly for rare, signatory whiskies which can be a trifle more difficult to get your hands on.
Whisky and Alement, the Boilermaker House, Whisky Den and The Elysian are among the specialist whisky bars which are springing up in Melbourne to cater for the discerning whisky drinker’s palate.
Whisky expert Laura Hay, who took AFL stars Adam Cooney and Brian Lake through a boutique whisky tasting at the Boilermaker House, says there is increasing demand for premium whiskies as connoisseurs increasingly seek out older and rarer whiskies.
“There are a lot more whisky drinkers than there used to be. People are a lot more educated in the world of whisky and they share their knowledge with each other via social media,” she says.
“They want to buy in to an experience, a journey and try the best of the best and things they have never tried before.
“The whole scene of whisky drinking all around Australia, but more so in Melbourne, has people who are dedicated to prime spirits.
“Everyone wants something that they haven’t tried before and whiskies that are difficult to get their hands on.
“Everyone wants something they’ve never tried before and everyone wants to try a whisky that is difficult to get their hands on. That’s what makes whisky so exciting.
“If there’s a time for people wanting to try exclusive whisky, it’s more so now.
“There’s more whisky out there than ever before in the Australian market. and it’s continuing to grow.”
Ms Hay said a whisky matured in sherry casks was always a huge hit, while whiskies from the Isle of Islay such as Lagavulin and Laphroaig were always in demand. Combine an Islay single malt with a sherry cask and the pairing is like “gold dust”.
“There are so many other flavours out there,” she added. “People change their minds and trends change, but more often than not, big, full-on, dramatic whiskies tend to be more popular than the whiskies which are more elegant and gentle.
“Whisky is very evocative and complex — when you spell the aromas, you instantly get memories. It’s a very personal experience.”
While trends continually change, and whiskies are as individual as the palates of the people who enjoy them, many enthusiasts keep a record of their whisky tastings and a discerning eye out for their preferred malt expressions.
Anyone new to whisky can go into one of Melbourne’s whisky bars and ask questions of highly trained bar staff who are enthusiastic and keen to be able to share their experience.
Geoff Fewell, head of whisky for the Speakeasy Group, which owns Boilermaker House and Eau-de-Vie in Melbourne, says he’s noticed a broader trend in people wanting to drink better.
“Number one, we have lots of whisky, and that’s something that people enjoy. On top of that we pride ourselves on great service and a warm, friendly atmosphere that people really enjoy.
“We have well over 900 bottles on the back bar and a lot of them are pretty rare. We sell most of them pretty regularly.
“With whisky there’s definitely a trend of people wanting to drink the rarer stuff — single cask whiskies, things they otherwise won’t be able to buy or try.
“People are becoming more educated about what they’re drinking and eating in general. If you look at the food trend of local, sustainable and natural practices, that can be followed into whisky. People are looking for local produce and moving away from larger, industrial production capacities.”
When it comes to whisky cocktails, Melburnian locals flock through the doors of the Boilermaker House looking for a Whisky Sour or an Old Fashioned.
Their signature Boilermaker Sour is delicious blend of Scottish whisky, passionfruit and IPA beer, so it’s no wonder it’s a big seller.
“There are definitely trends of people going for sherry cask whiskies like the Glendronach or a Glenfarclas, and the other side is the big, heavy peaty whiskies. They are the two styles that most people go for,” Geoff says.
“A lot of people come in and they know what they want to drink, but we also get a lot of people who want to explore new things, and that’s part of the beauty of having the library of the back bar.
“We get people who have been drinking whisky for years who come in and try something they’ve never had before.”
Complete beginner? Geoff says: “If you don’t like GlenDronach 12-year-old, you probably shouldn’t drink whisky. And I’ve never had anyone who doesn’t drink it. It’s delicious.”
After a long day, walking into The Elysian Whisky Bar in Fitzroy is likely to soothe even the most exhausted soul. Jazz oozes into the cosy bar as about 300 whiskies line the shelves.
What is particularly intriguing for a whisky dilettante is the number of unfamiliar labels borne by the focus on independent bottlings from around the world.
Owner-operators Kelvin Low and Yao Wong are knowledgeable and particularly passionate about rate and unique bottlings, casually mentioning that they are the only bar in the world to be selling a particular single malt whisky from the Tomintoul Distillery in Scotland.
While this 1968 dram was distilled and bottled in Scotland, it was produced exclusively for the Malaysian market, and was a gift from the bar’s very generous first customers.
“We do a lot of independent bottlings, so this is something quite unique. The Elysian offers single malts but not what they know them to be from the distillery,” Mr Low says.
“For example, many distilleries have single malt whiskies that are very well known. But that distillery may also offer a lot of single casks — barrels that were sold to independent bottlers, and they can be quite different because they each have their own sub-characters.
“To make a single malt, many barrels have been put together to get that consistency and flavour.”
And it’s not just Scotland’s national drink. The Elysian has whiskies from independent bottlers in Belgium, Germany, Taiwan and Japan, to mention just a few.
Mr Wong added: “When you’re building a brand, consistency is the most important thing. But what it doesn’t give you is a small snapshot of outstanding barrels that might be sitting in their warehouse.
“And that’s where the magic of independent bottlers comes through. They can really showcase whiskies from distilleries that don’t normally release whiskies either as a single malt or as their own brand.”
Flavours you like, how you feel, whether you are drinking before or after dinner can all help bar staff make suggestions.
Whether you are a typically a red wine drinker or prefer light and delicate flavours, these preferences can all help narrow down a whisky flavour profile to suit your palate.
If you’re a fan of dried fruit, spices and Christmas cake, try a whisky which has matured in a sherry cask. The longer it’s in the cask, the more woody notes and tannin it will have.
It’s not just the Scottish single malts, which are worthy of a Glencairn glass. Australia produces world-class malts, and locals need look no further than Melbourne’s own Starward whisky distillery. But that’s a whole other feature.
As the winter chill sets in, there’s no better time to find a roaring fire and pour yourself a quiet dram.
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