New chef Buddha Lo takes reins at Matteo’s in North Fitzroy

IT’S been a North Fitzroy stalwart for more than two decades, but a new chef and his Chinese-roasted duck has made Matteo’s a must-try, writes Dan Stock.

Taste restaurant review: Matteo's. Chinese duck. Picture- Nicole Cleary

IT’S hard to believe given Spotify’s aural algorithms now cater to our every mood, but back in the 1990s it was a real, paid-up hospo job to be a playlist consultant.

They’d come in and tell the restaurant what to play, and when, creating CD collections that took the rather important role of ambience director out of the hands of waiters and into the well-remunerated arms of the waltz-in-and-out consultant.

I don’t know if Matteo Pignatelli, whose eponymous restaurant has proudly sat on this site and celebrates 22 – yes, 22! – years in July, ever employed a consultant to look after the playlist back when, but he might want to now.

If it wasn’t Whitney saving all her love for me it was Carly Simon telling me I’m vain while the Bangles were standing alongside with their eternal flame. We seemed stuck on Snooze FM; just when we’d get caught up in conversation or the food on the plate, there was Adele or Celine demanding attention.

Elton wouldn’t have been out of place getting all Circle of Life, which actually would’ve been fitting as there’s a lovely circularity about the journey of new chef Buddha Lo.

Matteo's will celebrate its 22nd anniversary in July. Picture: Nicole Cleary

For the past decade Brendan McLean was the man in charge of the kitchen, serving up a menu of broad French-Japanese influences to much acclaim. Buddha completed his apprenticeship under Brendan here before working under Raymond Capaldi at Hare & Grace. He broadened his horizons and experience in London working within the Gordon Ramsay empire and has now returned to take over the reins from Brendan, starting a new chapter in the storied restaurant’s history. And if what we ate this night is any indication, it’s a welcome return.

My dinner date, always quick with a smile once the first glass of wine is poured, usually less fleet-footed with compliments once food is served, kept muttering “genius, genius” into her prawn laksa ravioli, and I’m sure if James Reyne hadn’t startled her out of her reverie she quite possibly would’ve licked the plate clean of the creamed corn in between still saying same with the duck.

Restrained at every turn, dishes are constructed with a razor sharp, attuned palate adjusted to nuance. That the French-Japanese of his predecessor has been replaced by an Asian influence is clear in that butter doesn’t do all the heavy lifting, neither does salt.

Matteo's must-try dish - the Chinese duck. Picture: Nicole Cleary

Having said, the baby corn that rounds out a quartet of corn served with the duck – creamed, charred, a crisp shard and bitter shoots - is poached in the good stuff and is completely swoon-worthy as a result. As is the crisp-roasted, tender pink breast meat that comes with a dense duck-neck meat sausage, with a sliver of ruby rich breasola adding a porky hit of salty depth. It’s excellent ($44).

So, too, king dory, a plate pretty and dramatic. Under a twisted crown of crisp vermicelli seasoned with prawn, two fillets pan-tanned on a single side snuggle on a bed of diced mushroom and pork. A sticky-thick, midnight-black miso sauce completes a restrained yet totally satisfying take on fish and crisps ($43).

From the delicious “dukkah” of bonito, almond meal, seaweed and bonito to sprinkle on crusty airy ciabatta to start through the picture perfect Indonesian 1000 layers cake to end, the meal was bookended by cleverly subtle but focused hits of salt and sweet respectively.

That laksa, for instance, shows a deftness of touch; rich yet light, it didn’t overpower the delicate sweetness of the prawn that generously fills the pillows of ravioli. A crisp-fried soft shell crab adds – perhaps unnecessary – crunch but no faulting the generosity of the serve ($24).

The wine list - a glorious doc reflecting a cellar built up over two decades but with great drinking sub $50 a bottle if you’re not in the mood for a three-figure Burgundy, with an equally precise by-the-glass offering - is almost reason to visit alone, as is the ginger-soy-garlic marinated, togarashi-seasoned quail to start that’s perfectly fried to a pink-inner’d crisp ($24).

As handsome as a Fitzroyal dowager, the room still looks out onto the stretch of Brunswick St that hasn’t changed a great deal in the 20 decades the restaurant has been here. It’s still removed from the bustle up and down the road; still a destination, now with even more hits than memories.

And though I could take or leave service - while well-drilled erred to the brusquely formal and where some warmth would soften and loosen the experience - this was one of the most surprisingly excellent meals I’ve enjoyed for some time.

Buddha’s return has made Matteo’s a must visit. Yet again. Perhaps just pack some earplugs, just in case Mariah and Cher are in the house, too.

15.5/20

Matteo’s

533 Brunswick St, North Fitzroy

Ph: 9481 1177

matteos.com.au

Open Lunch and dinner daily (except Sat lunch)

Go-to dish: Chinese-roasted duck