Laura with chef Phil Wood is the final piece of Pt Leo Estate puzzle

LAURA is the special occasion sibling to Pt Leo Estate’s brilliant bustling restaurant and completes the vision for art, food and wine in one place, writes Dan Stock.

THE MORNINGTON PENINSULA is no stranger to sculpture — see the McClelland Sculpture Park — nor is it a stranger to sculptures in the vines, with Red Hill’s Montalto holding an annual competition for the past two decades.

But there has been nothing on the scale of Pt Leo Estate.

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Opening last October, this $50 million, 50-acre decades-long realisation of art and dining is thanks to the vision of Pauline and John Gandel, who have created a space that celebrates the best of food, wine and sculpture in one place, and in doing so have given Victoria a world-class destination that warrants multiple visits.

Laura, the final piece in the puzzle, is another wildly compelling addition.

The impressive entrance to the Pt Leo Estate winery sculpture park

Billed as “refined” rather than “fine” dining, Laura — named after the arresting Jaume Plensa sculpture who casts her eye over the space — is the quieter, slower-paced 45-seat addendum to the bustling 110-seat restaurant that’s been packed since opening.

Though it’s named Laura, this restaurant is equally the story of Phil Wood, the ex-Sydneysider regarded as one of that city’s best chefs.

Eight years is a long time to be under the shadow of anyone’s ponytail, but by all accounts Phil was the culinary light that kept the crown jewel of Neil Perry’s Rockpool (and briefly Eleven Bridge) shining bright.

After leaving the fold mid last year and fielding offers from near and far, it was Pt Leo that won the day, and soon after, the peninsula that won Phil’s heart.

While no expense has been spared — elegant Cutipol cutlery, superfine Zalto glassware, bespoke crockery — this is not just throwing money make-it-rain-style at a project in the simplistic assumption that zeros equal heroes (but only highlights the oversight of industrial hand soap in the otherwise luxe loos).

Have a vine time at Pt Leo

Laura is a smart and comfortable space already at ease, where Frank Sinatra and Louis Armstrong might segue through Alabama Shakes to Solange later in the afternoon.

It’s the perfect soundtrack to a lazy long lunch where the expanse of Western Port’s white-flecked aquamarine is book ended by the summer-dry fields of Phillip Island on one side, monumental sculptures reflecting the sun’s rays on the other. It’s a mesmerising vista.

Phil’s dishes cleverly complement rather than compete with that art and view.

At once confident, mature and completely unique, there’s an understated yet bold elegance to each of the courses — a choice of four ($120) to six ($140) that’s yours to make — that are decidedly unfussy and delicious to a fault, each a celebration of peninsula produce and the area’s agricultural pursuits.

That might mean plump, sweet and deftly smoked mussels from Flinders served on a wet polenta milled from peninsula corn seasoned with seaweed butter.

Fresh soft pistachios and tiny dried tomatoes add texture and brilliant bursts of sweetness respectively. It’s like nothing you’ve eaten before, but will want to again.

Perhaps straight away.

Or a perfect fillet of John Dory cooked with vine leaves and served with pickled grapes, both from the estate vineyard, along with pine nuts and prawns.

Simple, elegant and completely delicious: the John Dory with estate vine leaves and pickled grapes and prawns.

And an opening act that stole the show: meaty “lion’s mane” mushrooms from Benton’s Rise farm in Tuerong, poached in chicken stock until just soft, served under a pretty crown of the sweetest carrots with diced abalone for textural heft. A shiso-spiked beetroot puree is poured at the table, the lot combining to transform earthiness into meatiness and into a stunning dish.

Charcoal from the wood-fired oven that services the restaurant next door is used to create a salt-crust in which Luxton Park lamb neck is baked with figs. Cracked open and served at the table with the prettiest bouquet garni of herbs, the meat is exquisite — subtly salty, fig-sweet and delicate.

Alongside, a plate of charred zucchini with mint and buffalo curd, and roasted kipflers served with a sticky hazelnut and porcini sauce. It’s generous family-style feasting done with fine dining flair that’s refreshingly fuss free. What’s not to love?

Family style feasting with fine dining flair: the Luxton Park lamb baked with figs

The 600-strong cellar is equally considered and you’ll drink well whether your budget’s $50 or $250. It ventures (much) further afar than the all-Victorian list next door — though we simply travelled back in time to the excellent 2015 estate chardonnay, with its dignified oak and dashing fruit ($76).

A meringue wave with squiggles of lemon cream, nutmeggy figs and cumin ice cream takes good care of desserts, but it’s the cheese course beforehand that lingers longer.

Another inspired, boldly original dish that pirouettes along the sweet-savoury divide, estate honey sweetens black lentils on which whipped prune and pear holds a tiny pikelet with a square of Berry’s Creek blue cheese.

It’s at one harmonious, wildly interesting and utterly delicious.

Laura is the special occasion addition to the brilliantly bustling charms of the restaurant next door.

Pt Leo is complete. And it’s simply magnificent.

LAURA, PT LEO ESTATE

3649 Frankston-Flinders Rd, Merricks

Ph: 5989 9011

FOOD

Special occasion

HOURS

Open Lunch Thurs.-Sun; Dinner Thurs.-Sat

CHEF

Phil Wood

RATING

17/20

DESTINATION DISH

Luxton Park lamb

ONLINE

ptleoestate.com.au