Willow Urban Retreat a clean, green way to brunch that’s tasty at every turn

CHEERS to your health with a rose lassi or make your insides sing with the rice-flour pancakes paired with charred figs at this Armadale newcomer, where vibrant and nourishing meals mean healthy options are no longer boring.

MELBOURNE is a tale of two diners — those who freakshake and those who don’t.

And those who eschew the calorific delights of milkshakes towering with doughnuts, chocolate bars and other confections are increasingly taking sanctuary in the spate of “wellness cafes” popping up, where healthy eating isn’t just for fat days, it’s a way of life.

Armadale’s Willow Urban Retreat is one such newcomer.

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Willow Urban Retreat

One half is a spa and wellness centre offering yoga, mindfulness and ayurvedic cooking classes, and even a sacred women’s circle every new moon.

The other is a 60-seat farm-to-table cafe.

Head chef Nick Cree (ex Supernormal and Top Paddock) and in-house naturopath Joanne Riley have devised the wholesome menu, which focuses on the seasonal and the sustainable, and capitalises on produce from the owners’ farm in Red Hill.

Once you’ve had your fill, exit via the foodstore for bone broth, house-made granola, teas, seasonings and oils.

Eat your greens at Willow Urban Retreat.

FOOD

Landing at most tables, the Willow Greens ($18) are a vibrant chlorophyll hit of broccoli, avocado, ribbons of zucchini, beans and steamed kale, all lightly oiled, strewn with herbs, nuts and seeds, and topped with a poached egg.

To think, most of us growing up weren’t allowed to leave the dinner table unless we’d eaten all our greens and now this Kermit-hued medley is a cafe bestseller. Baked eggs ($19.50) are jacked up with a spicy split-pea dahl to apply to excellent, charred flat bread with cumin yoghurt and fresh curry leaves, while the signature rice-flour pancake ($19) skews more savoury than sweet, its thick, dense disc sunny with maple butter and coconut shavings as charred figs and sour cherry segments lend cut-through. Bread is from Convent Bakery.

Spicy chai latte served with rose petals and a cinnamon quill.

Rose lassi with dragon fruit, rosewater, coconut yoghurt and pistachio crumbs.

DRINK

Milks, teas, lattes and smoothies of all persuasions abound, but when in doubt, reliable Niccolo coffee — organic and fair trade — is the house blend. A spicy chai latte ($6)
is served with rose petals and a cinnamon quill while the rose lassi ($11) is an Insta-pretty pink straw-clogger with dragon fruit, rosewater, coconut yoghurt and pistachio crumbs.

SERVICE

Top service from a cohesive young crew who seem genuinely happy to be there and are the full bottle on the menu.

X FACTOR

The cafe is bustling this Saturday morning but there’s a soothing vibe. Perhaps it’s the cool neutral palette of the dining room, or the clean air thanks to the air purifiers. Even the bill arrives anchored with a chunk of chakra-balancing crystal. Whatever, Willow is a beautiful space, with equally covetable cups and crockery.

Soothing vibes at Willow Urban Retreat. Picture: Alex Drewniak

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

On-par pricing for this well-heeled area and also considering the quality and provenance
of produce. You can really taste the difference with that $7 side of Cherry Tree organic bacon.
VERDICT

Health cafes are no longer all lentils and mung beans. Willow cafe is considered and tasty at every turn. The fact it’s good for you is a bonus.

WILLOW URBAN RETREAT

1203 High St, Armadale. Ph: 9822 8778

FOOD: Health-conscious cafe

HOURS: Mon-Fri 7am-3.30pm, Sat-Sun 8am-4pm

CHEF: Nick Cree

TIME BETWEEN ORDERING AND EATING: 15 minutes

PERFECT FOR: Virtuous eating

DESTINATION DISH: Willow Greens

NOISE LEVEL: Sociable

ONLINE: willowurbanretreat.com.au