I went to Canada to see wild grizzly bears, I didn't expect to get this close

The Great Bear Lodge is the number one destination for grizzly bears in the world, with 40 to 60 of them roaming the surrounding area. 

I’m sitting shotgun in a WWII-era Grumman Goose seaplane, beside a pilot dressed in a fur-lined leather bomber jacket, gazing at the stunning scenery passing by below. I feel I’ve stepped on to a movie set, or perhaps into another time.

We’re flying over the rugged mountain ranges of British Columbia, en route from Port Hardy, at the northern tip of Vancouver Island, into the Great Bear Rainforest on Canada’s rugged west coast.

The jagged peaks and forested slopes give way to glistening Smith Inlet, and as we begin our descent I catch sight of our destination – a floating lodge nestled on the far shore. We touch down smoothly and glide across the water toward the dock, where we’re met with a warm welcome. Great Bear Lodge is in the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest and true to its name, it is renowned as one of the world’s top destinations for grizzly bear viewing.

Accessible only by boat or seaplane, its remote location adds to the feeling of seclusion and adventure.

The guests alongside me cross a wide range of ages and nationalities, including some fellow Aussies, united by a shared goal of crossing off a major bucket list item – seeing grizzly bears in the wild.

We touch down smoothly and glide across the water toward the dock, where we’re met with a warm welcome at the Great Bear Lodge Picture: Great Bear Lodge.

The Lodge

Great Bear Lodge is cosy, blending rustic charm with modern comforts. Accommodating only 18 guests at a time, it features nine private ensuite rooms along with spacious communal areas – including a lounge, dining room, and expansive deck. The lack of wi-fi, phone service, or TV makes it easy to disconnect and fully immerse yourself in the beauty of the remote wilderness.

Perfectly designed to maximise bear-watching opportunities, Great Bear Lodge operates off-grid, with a focus on sustainability and minimising environmental impact. Our host Tom Rivest, co-founder and resident bear expert who lives on-site most of the year, and guides – Kestral, Josh, and Jann – are all highly knowledgeable and passionate about sharing their insights on the local flora, fauna, and the importance of preserving this biodiverse region.

Following a briefing and lunch, we waste no time donning the warm, waterproof gear provided, grabbing binoculars and cameras, and heading straight out for our first viewing.

The lodge has several specially designed riverside viewing platforms and hides. Picture: Great Bear Lodge.

The season

I’m visiting in the Canadian autumn, perfectly timed with the peak of the salmon run in September and October. The rivers surrounding the lodge are teeming with chum and pink salmon, which have travelled hundreds of kilometres to return to their birthplace, guided by magnetic navigation. This creates a prime feeding ground for grizzly bears who take full advantage of the abundant food to fatten up ahead of their winter hibernation.

The lodge has several specially designed riverside viewing platforms and hides, accessible by a unique mode of transport, an old yellow school bus, adding to the charm of the experience.

After bumping along a short while, we arrive and settle into an enclosed hide for our first evening viewing. We slow down, tuning into the rhythm of nature around us. The gentle drizzle becomes mesmerising, almost meditative, from the comfort of our sheltered vantage point. In hushed whispers we point out the plentiful birdlife feeding along the river while keeping our eyes peeled in anticipation.

Tom directs our attention to a grizzly bear emerging from behind our bus, just footsteps away. Picture: Vashti Newcomb.

The wildlife

A ripple of quiet excitement runs through the group as a mother grizzly bear and her three yearlings are spotted on the distant far bank. We learn that “yearlings” refers to cubs born the previous winter (about 1.5 years old), while “coy” are younger cubs, born in the den over the winter and around nine months old.

Buoyed by this first glimpse at dusk, we eagerly anticipate the next morning’s viewing, and are rewarded with an experience that far exceeds expectations.

It’s a clear day and we’re sitting on an open viewing platform when Tom directs our attention to a grizzly bear emerging from behind our bus, just footsteps away. Gently sniffing in our direction, she observes our group while busily scratching her back against the rear bumper.

Tom explains that 40 to 60 bears roam the area around the lodge, with many recognised and named. Picture: Vashti Newcomb.

Tom and our guides stand tall and position themselves strategically for safety, while we scramble to switch from long telephoto camera lenses to wide angle to capture this beautiful creature at such proximity. When she eventually turns and ambles away, we let out a collective breath, with smiles wide. We can’t believe our luck at this up-close encounter, but the excitement isn’t over.

Moments later, the same bear returns and as she manoeuvres between a gap in the trees, two small cubs appear close behind. Clambering over tree roots and undergrowth the family make their way along the river’s edge to within arms reach of our raised platform. We watch in fascination as they follow their mother into the water and begin searching for salmon. Moving further into the deeper current, both cubs lose their footing and begin drifting away downstream, bleating forlornly to their mother. She leaves her meal (somewhat reluctantly it seems) to swim after them, and we witness her gently guide them back toward shore before slipping out of view around the river bend.

Later, Tom explains that 40 to 60 bears roam the area around the lodge, with many recognised and named. This morning, we had the joy of meeting Amelia and her coy.

Our luck continues, with more bear sightings on our twice-daily expeditions. We watch a family with cubs practise their fishing technique, scooping the easy pickings in the shallows along the far river bank. And in contrast, an energetic young male fishing alone in the fast moving rapids upstream, selectively biting the fattiest chunks out of salmon (the belly and skin) while tossing aside the rest. By this stage in the season the bears can afford to be choosy.

An energetic young bear fishes alone in the fast moving rapids, selectively biting the fattiest chunks out of salmon (the belly and skin) while tossing aside the rest. Picture: Great Bear Lodge.

The activities

We enjoy a guided nature walk one afternoon, learning to identify the towering Western red cedars, Sitka spruce, and alder trees that form the rainforest. Along the way, we get a close look at a bear wallow (a mud bath) and stomp path (a trail where bears walk with a twist in their step to leave scent).

Another day, we all hop aboard boats for a guided tour through the estuaries around Smith Inlet. We spot harbour seals basking on logs and several juvenile bald eagles perched high in the trees. Emerging from a shaded, canopied estuary, where we explored a stunning hidden waterfall, we are treated to the magical sight of a humpback whale mother and calf gliding past, their blow rising into the air.

To top it off, one morning, while sipping coffee on the deck, we are treated to the sight of a small black bear swimming across the inlet from a nearby island. Heading straight toward us, the bear emerges on the shoreline just steps from the lodge, shakes off the water, and marches right by us, making its way up the steep, almost vertical path that leads beyond the waterfall. We had truly hit the bear jackpot.

The wild Sockeye salmon grilled over alder wood with wild rice and roasted sweet potato was a standout dish. Picture: Vashti Newcomb.

The food

All the fresh air and adventuring works up an appetite, which is catered to by the onsite chef who whips up freshly cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner daily as well as platters of freshly baked cookies and cheeses to welcome us back from each excursion.

The focus is on sustainability and local produce, with delicious and generous meals served family-style on the communal table. Standout dishes include wild Sockeye salmon grilled over alder wood with wild rice and roasted sweet potato, vegetarian chill accompanied by freshly made cornbread and guacamole, and a West Coast paella with scallops, ling cod, and spot prawns.

Freshly brewed coffee, a variety of teas, and a well-stocked selection of wines, local beers, and soft drinks are available to enjoy while relaxing and reading in the cosy lounge or soaking up the sunshine on the deck. The lack of wi-fi encourages conversation and browsing the wide range of coffee-table books and local maps adorning the walls. Two guests take a plunge off the deck into the chilly water, and it must have been as exhilarating as hoped as it was shortly followed by a proposal that we toasted and celebrated together at dinner. This idyllic pocket of wilderness had worked its charm.

We are treated to the magical sight of a humpback whale mother and calf gliding past, their blow rising into the air. Picture: Vashti Newcomb.

The farewell

On our final day, we greeted a new group of guests as they stepped off the seaplane, their faces full of awe as they took in their surroundings. We couldn’t help but gush about the amazing experiences awaiting them before we then climbed aboard ourselves.

Our phones began to ping with incoming messages as we flew back into civilisation, but before diving back into the rush of real life, I took a quiet moment to lock into memory this unforgettable experience in one of the most beautiful and remote parts of the world.

The writer was a guest of Destination British Columbia and Destination Canada.

Great Bear Lodge is cosy, blending rustic charm with modern comforts, accommodating only 18 guests at a time. Picture: Great Bear Lodge.

What is the best way to get to the Great Bear Lodge from Australia?

Air Canada flies non-stop from Sydney and Brisbane to Vancouver year-round. Pacific Coastal flies from Vancouver South Terminal to Port Hardy.

How much does it cost to stay at the Great Bear Lodge?

Packages to Great Bear Lodge start from $C3465 twin share for four nights, including airport transfers in Port Hardy, one night accommodation in Port Hardy, three nights at Great Bear Lodge, seaplane flights, meals and beverages, bear viewing, wilderness walks and boat excursions, gratuities and taxes.

Originally published as I went to Canada to see wild grizzly bears, I didn't expect to get this close