I tried out 6 Fiji resorts, this is my No.1

Unlike other Fiji resorts, Oarsman’s Bay Lodge doesn't have private pools, a spa or butler service but it is equipped with the essentials, and nothing you don’t really need.

The Yasawas are a northern island group in Fiji that some, possibly now including me, claim are the most beautiful in the 330-strong archipelago. Picture: Oarsman's Bay Lodge.

The colour of the lagoon reminds me of rich people’s pools, tinted impossible blues like pretend paradises. But no amount of money could capture the Blue Lagoon’s blazing spectrum of palest aqua by the shore to darkest cobalt on the horizon. Absolutely priceless.

Earlier this year I was fortunate enough to stay at six Fijian resorts and it’s this one, with its mesmerising, Hollywood-famous lagoon, that I think about most. And not just because it’s the only one I can afford.

Oarsman’s Bay Lodge did not, like the other resorts, have private pools (or any pool), or gastronomic dining or dazzling architecture. There was no butler service, no spa, and no seaplane arrival. (Most guests arrive on a ferry from Nadi.)

The adults-only accommodation is simple, but perfect for wannabe castaways like me. Thirteen brilliant-blue cottages shaded by palms and equipped with the essentials, from ensuites and air-con to verandas and hammocks. And nothing you don’t really need.

The accommodation is simple, but perfect for wannabe castaways. Thirteen brilliant-blue cottages shaded by palms. Picture: Oarsman's Bay Lodge.

All freshly painted and cheerful after a February makeover that added a pandanus-thatched cultural house-cum-massage pavilion and two extra bures, Oarsman’s also has a nine-room dorm above the main lodge/restaurant. (“Best in the Yasawas,” two women guests told me.)

The Yasawas are a northern island group in Fiji that some, possibly now including me, claim are the most beautiful in the 330-strong archipelago. They’re said to have the bluest waters, the most attractive landscapes and a deliciously laid-back vibe. But with enough amenities and awesome marine life – turtles, dolphins, giant mantas – that you never get bored.

The lodge has an activity centre that organises everything from fish feeding and snorkel safaris to expeditions to the sacred Sawa-i-Lau caves, said to be the final resting place of the 10-headed god Ulutini.

There are also guided excursions to the chiefly village of Nacula, after which this island is named. The village visit is important to understand your role in this ecosystem.

The cottages are equipped with the essentials, from ensuites and air-con to verandas and hammocks. Picture: Oarsman's Bay Lodge.

Oarsman’s is majority owned and run by Aussie expat Dean Swaagman on behalf of the village trust or mataqali (group of families), with a fifth of profits poured back into island health, education and housing.

That’s why the village visit is so compelling – it’s a fascinating insight into your money at work. The renovations to the community hall. The solar-powered homes. The neat primary/secondary school with boarder accommodation and speedboat transfers.

Oarsman’s frontman Beni Soleil Caugau is my guide, pointing out the Installation Rock where new chiefs are anointed, the tiny hospital, and various vignettes of village life. Everyone crying out “Bula!” Top way to spend a morning.

Lodge life is as busy or as languid as you like. Grab a mask, snorkel and fins on arrival and you’ll never need for much else. There’s a colourful reef right in front of you and speedboat excursions to others further afield.

The cooking’s fine and includes such treats as coconut-steamed lagoon fish, dal soup and tandoori chicken. Picture: Oarsman's Bay Lodge.

Kayak or paddleboard the mirrored waters. Hike high into the green hills for panoramic Yasawa views. Assume position on your veranda, hammock, or at the bar for the nightly light show as the sun dissolves in the Pacific and the sky erupts in pastels.

The rhythm of Oarsman’s life reminds me of the best beach holidays. Days break early, crisp and full of promise. Sunrise swims. Head to the restaurant for breakfast. Simple and satisfying, like much of the menu. (The cooking’s fine and includes such treats as coconut-steamed lagoon fish, dal soup and tandoori chicken.) Rest of the day, as always, at leisure.

The ultimate Oarsman’s fantasy is to escape to its private island, Yaromo, a volcanic outcrop about 10 minutes’ boat ride across the bay (watch out for flying fish).

Planted with palms and she-oaks, equipped with sunset decks, beach shack and a photogenic sandspit – heaven for small weddings – it’s a stunning place to play Robinson Crusoe for a day. Fully catered of course, with optional Champagne.

Assume position on your veranda, hammock, or at the bar for the nightly light show as the sun dissolves in the Pacific. Picture: Oarsman's Bay Lodge.

I can see why people rave about the Yasawas. They are very, very lovely. But the thing about Oarsman’s is, it made me feel carefree again. Reminded me of holidays in my 20s when I didn’t have a worry in the world. Obviously now in much nicer digs than back then, but similar vibes.

I’d struggle to put into words what appealed to me most about Oarsman’s, but manager Mary Ratulevu did a good job of it during our afternoon on Yaromo.

“I’m so happy we’re in this place at this time,” she told me, “when the world is so unsure of itself.”

Originally published as I tried out 6 Fiji resorts, this is my No.1