When the news came in that Passalacqua took out the top spot in the 50 Best Hotels in the World, I wasn’t the least bit surprised.
There are countless fancy hotels around the world which boast extraordinary levels of luxury - some are quite literally dripping in gold. But it’s the warm and welcoming Italian hospitality that sets this stunning villa on the shores of Lake Como apart. Despite its unimaginable splendour, there’s nothing stuffy or stuck-up about Passalacqua. Here's why:
Passalacqua opened its doors on the sparkling shores of Lake Como in 2022, for the first time in the villa’s 236-year history, it’s been reimagined as a 24-suite boutique hotel. Local De Santis family are the brains behind the hotel. It’s little surprise that they perfectly understand the art of hospitality, having been in the hotel game for decades as owners of Grand Hotel Tremezzo - one of Europe’s truly legendary institutions.
It’s the little touches, like being greeted by your name throughout your stay “Signorina Edwwwwwinnna” one of the friendly ladies at the concierge coos when I first step inside the grand villa, throwing her arms open and flashing a cheeky smile. A posey of freshly-picked flowers from the gardens are thrust into my hands and when I am shown to my suite, there’s already a little vase waiting for my personalised bouquet.
The pool is ‘la dolce vita’ personified. The vibrant, vintage-style umbrellas and sun loungers are custom designed by the fashionable Milan-based designer J.J. Martin of La DoubleJ, as is the 200-year-old glasshouse filled with colourful fabrics and tableware, where you can dine by the pool in the Italian sunshine. In my opinion, there’s no better place in the world to order an Aperol spritz.
This hotel is a design-lover’s dream. The swoon-worthy 18th-century villa has been painstakingly restored by Valentina De Santis – granddaughter and third generation hotelier – who handpicked the décor sourced from the finest Italian craftsmen and scoured antique stores all over the continent. It’s a true celebration of Italian artisanship – a red-carpet staircase, original frescoes, mosaic floors, glass-blown chandeliers from Murano and slabs of Carrara marble. You can opt to stay in the main Villa, the Palazz (built from the former horse stables) or the four-bedroom Casa al Lago by the water’s edge.
Some say the real test of a hotel is the breakfast. If that’s the case, Passalacqua does not disappoint. The buffet breakfast – brimming with cloud-soft, cream-filled maritozzi, cheeses, ribbons of cured meats – is served in the elegant dining room or in the garden by the fountain. The setting could not be more sumptuous, but there’s nothing pretentious about it. The glorious spread of food is set out in the charming old kitchen – where guests can simply wander in where the chefs are busily preparing omelettes– you feel like it’s your kitchen in your own personal villa.
In fact, one of the most surprising revelations throughout my stay was that I was welcome to pop into the kitchen whenever I felt peckish. There’s a fridge brimming with food, and a homemade torta (cake) stand on the counter where you can simply help yourself throughout the day. I’ve stayed at a number of hotels on the ‘50 Best List’, but I’ve never experienced this before.
Overall, there’s not heavy handed hotel staff or the feeling like you’re being carefully monitored because of all museum-worthy art and decorations (which it can feel like at some really posh hotels). Despite Passalacqua’s opulence, you can relax and put your feet up like it’s your private villa. It’s hard not to fall in love with this laissez-faire attitude that allows you to truly feel like you’re on holiday. To me that’s what luxury is really about.
The historic estate has hosted the who’s who of history from Napoleon and Winston Churchill to composer Vincenzo Bellini, who was so inspired by his surrounds he wrote not one but two operas during his stay.
Northern Italy’s Lake Como has long been the playground of the rich and famous - ask local resident, George Clooney. The hotel is tucked away on the shores of the sparkling Lago di Como for the ultimate privacy, but close enough to see the sites of the spectacular region or even just to wander into the authentic little town of Moltrasio far from the tourist crowds.
Sure, being chauffeured into town in a Maserati is a thrill in itself, but the mode of transportation that had me truly pinching myself was the classic Lake Como boat owned by Passalacqua and skippered by charming captain Bepe, who has been gliding around these waters for over 40 years. I met Bepe down at the hotel’s private dock, and we took out one of the hotels vintage motor launches for an exceptional day exploring Lake Como. He happily zipped me around to Como’s picturesque villages and we even got up close to the shore to have a sticky beak of George Clooney’s villa. Unfortunately, old mate George wasn’t home.
The manicured, multi-tiered gardens cascade down to the shoreline. The sprawling grounds have lemon, pear and pomegranate trees, silvery olive groves, Lebanese cedar and a rose garden. Each level of the gardens has its own special secret to reveal - whether it’s a glorious fountain, the jewel-like pool, a clay tennis court or even a level where chickens roam around free (that’s where they get the eggs for breakfast).
I never understood in The White Lotus TV series why hotel guests never seem to dine outside the hotel restaurants – like c'mon guys, you’re in Sicily! But after staying at Passalacqua, I completely get it. The setting is perfection and the menu, which is garden fresh and unfussy, had a chokehold on me. I ordered the signature spaghetti al pomodoro at least five times during my week-long stay and it now lives rent free in my head.
There’s a generosity to Passalacqua that sets it apart from all its competitors. There’s a seasonal calendar of daily activities, included in every stay. Each day guests are invited to join in a complimentary activity – whether that’s a gelato making class from the owner of a local gelateria (at the end you get to eat your creations!) or wine tasting with the in-house sommelier.
For those who really want to splash their cash at Lake Como, Passalacqua boasts one of Italy’s most luxurious suites and for a spare 10,000 euros per night you can check into the Bellini Suite. It’s pretty special - Vincenzo Bellini composed one of his most famous operas in this very room, and whilst I didn’t compose any great musical pieces whilst I was there, I certainly felt incredibly inspired to have a bubble bath.
After a few days away exploring the rest of Lake Como, I returned to Passalacqua for the weekend. Arriving through those grand iron gates and rolling down the gravel driveway – I felt a sense of coming home. Strange, I know. Quite possibly crazy, even, seeing that I live in a tiny Sydney apartment that is nothing remotely like a grand Italian estate with views over Lake Como, but such is the power of Passalacqua’s hospitality that I get the sense of a big warm hug stepping through those villa doors. Nothing summarises it more than at breakfast the next morning, one of the polished, white-jacketed waiters smiled at me, delivering my favourite coffee granita he knew I loved, and said “You’re back. Welcome home!”. And that, I reckon, is how you become the best hotel in the world.
In the World's 50 Best Hotels, Europe received the most nominations (21), followed by Asia (18), North America (6), Africa (3), Oceania (1) and South America (1).
Here are the rest of the hotels that rounded out the top 10 in the World's 50 Best Hotels ...
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