I spent 48 hours in Tirana, Albania - Europe’s most underrated city

It's affordable, it's uncrowded, and this compact capital is as walkable as it is charming - so why hasn't it hit the tourist radar before now?

For the uninitiated, Tirana has all the ingredients for the perfect European getaway: a curious history that tips its hat at both its strong Ottoman backbone and the horrors (and architecture) of Communism, complemented with a bustling night-life and dining scene.

Proximity to spectacular Unesco World Heritage-listed towns? You’re only ever a short drive away from the castle-centric destinations of Krujë and Berat. The dazzling Albanian Riviera, meanwhile, isn’t far away, and those who want quick access to a classic resort town will only have to travel 30 minutes to Durrës.

Add to that a distinct lack of summertime crowds and cheap-as-chips pricing, and you’ve got the perfect European go-to. How has Tirana, or Albania in general, managed to fly under the radar for so long? It’s a question you’ll ponder time and again as you tackle the following itinerary.

National Historical Museum at Skanderbeg Square in Tirana.

DAY 1: Morning

Don your sunglasses and head over to Skanderbeg Square, a gleaming plaza that serves as the heart of the city. You’re not here to pay tribute to Albania’s national hero, who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century (although, with a bronze statue of Skanderbeg on horseback front and centre, you could certainly do that). You’ve come to marvel at the huge Socialist mural sternly looking down at you from atop the National Historical Museum as you make your way to Et’hem Bey Mosque. Built in the late 18th century, it doesn’t have the visual impact of Istanbul’s Blue Mosque, but it’s the only mosque to have survived Communism in Tirana and has been restored beautifully.

You’re right around the corner from Byzantine-era Tirana Castle (also known as the Fortress of Justinian), which houses a maze of restaurants, cafés and traditional handicraft stores behind its ancient walls. Stop in for lunch at Tartuf Shop, a restaurant that specialises in all things truffle (at ridiculously low prices to boot), but not before enjoying an espresso at one of the cafés lining Rruga Murat Toptani, an atmospheric tree-lined pedestrian strip that runs between the National Gallery of Art and the parliament building.

A WWII tank art installation in Tirana's Skanderbeg Square.

Afternoon

Resist the urge to check out the Pyramid of Tirana – the title is far more grandiose than the structure, which was initially built in honour of dictator Enver Hoxha. Those short on time are better off visiting the Museum of Secret Surveillance, aka the House of Leaves, across the road. It was the Albanian equivalent of the Stasi headquarters in former East Germany, all interrogation rooms, torture devices and chilling photography.

Now that your mood is relatively sombre (sorry), it’s a perfect time to check out Bunk’Art 2, one of two large nuclear bunkers transformed into a museum space dedicated to the victims of Communist terror. Some also decide to check out Bunk’Art 1, but it’s a rare beast who can handle that much horror in one day. 

Bunk’Art 1, a nuclear bunker converted into a museum.

Evening

As night falls across the city, elevate the mood by popping in to Restorant Tymi, a neon-lit world where the rock decor is as loud as the music. Here, page after page of traditional (and dirt-cheap) meat dishes are ready to be washed down with bottles of Birra Korça. Don’t miss the kofte (meatballs) or the fërgesë (meat, peppers and tomatoes roasted in cottage cheese).

Those keen to kick on would be crazy to miss warming a seat at Komiteti Kafe Muzeum, and/or at Hemingway Tirana, a small bar with a big heart and stellar cocktail list. 

The vibrant interior of Restorant Tymi.

DAY 2: Morning

The Grand Park of Tirana may be beckoning with its large, man-made lake and waterfront bars and cafés, but the Dajti Ekspres – the longest cable-car experience in the Balkans at 4.7km – is only a 15- to 20-minute cab ride from the city centre. Take the 15-minute cable car journey up Dajti Mountain where you can go for a morning hike, mountain-bike ride or even play a round of mini golf after you have an obligatory cup of tea at the rotating bar or courtyard café. The national park is home to brown bears, grey wolves, wild boar and more than a few wildcats so be cautious if you’re travelling alone. 

Dajti Ekspres Cable Car over Tirana.

Afternoon

No doubt you’ve worked up an appetite, so ask your driver to drop you off at Era Old-Blloku, a vibrant eatery specialising in traditional cuisine in the upscale suburb of Biloku. After a few days of rich Ottoman cuisine, you may be craving a salad and this is certainly the place to nab one – just don’t miss the celebrated rice pudding.

Bill paid, it’s time for a leisurely stroll around this leafy neighbourhood, popping in to the quirkier-than-average Radio Bar for an ice-cold drink, before making your way to the Pazari i Ri neighbourhood, which forms part of the Old Town and is home to the city’s eclectic market. Here you can buy souvenirs, handicrafts and fruit and veg, but just as readily you can happen upon a stack of old passports, army equipment and weapons. Well worth a look. 

The markets of Pazari i ri in Tirana.

Evening

Any local will tell travellers walking around the Pazari i Ri area to head to Oda for a taste of what’s truly authentic Albanian, but if you prefer a modern spin on classic dishes (we draw the line at veal brain), take a seat at Mullixhiu. Housed in a Scandi-looking mountain cabin by Lake Tirana, the restaurant – under the helm of former Noma chef Bledar Kola – is all about blending the old and the new in a warm, ambient setting.

Still got loads of energy? There’s a you-shaped hole on the dance floors centred around Bloku. Get amongst it.  

The writer was a guest of Explore.

Tirana city skyline view.

How to get to Tirana, Albania

Emirates offers three daily flights to Dubai from Sydney and Melbourne, two daily flights from Brisbane and Perth and a daily flight from Adelaide. FlyDubai operates non-stop flights between Dubai and Tirana on Fridays, Sundays and Wednesdays.

Where to stay in Tirana

Close to Skanderbeg Square, Unik Hotel has a rooftop terrace with a view overlooking the city, a restaurant, on-site parking and, despite its high-end feel, a price tag hovering around the $130-a-night mark.

Originally published as I spent 48 hours in Tirana, Albania - Europe’s most underrated city