I spent 48 hours in Manila, this is the ultimate 2 day itinerary

Once avoided by travellers en route to the Philippines’ islands, this buzzing city is a melting pot of cultures that blends the old and the new.

As a gateway to the Philippines’ 7000-plus islands, Manila is often considered more of a place to pass through than to visit in its own right. But add it to your itinerary and you’ll find a city that’s an intriguing mix of colonial Spanish heritage and modern Asian dynamism – a place where centuries-old stone churches stand alongside gleaming skyscrapers, and chrome-trimmed jeepneys share the streets with the latest-model cars.

DAY ONE: Morning

Jump on a bike and explore the city’s historic heart, Intramuros. Bambike is a socio-ecological enterprise that employs a community development organisation for the poor to make its sustainable bamboo bikes.

Intramuros was constructed in the late 16th century, within stone walls, fortified bastions, and a moat, and was essentially a gated community for the Filipino and Spanish elite during the colonial period. The walls enclose over half a square kilometre of cobblestoned streets, colonial-era houses and government buildings, plazas, schools and churches.

First stop should be Fort Santiago, the remains of an elaborate fortress overlooking the Pasig River. It once defended the city before serving as a prison for its occupiers. Continue to Manila Cathedral to admire its vaulted ceiling and 130 stained-glass windows. Constructed in 1571, the cathedral is now in its eighth iteration, thanks to earthquakes and World War II. The smaller Unesco-listed Saint Augustine’s church, however, has survived intact since 1607, its Baroque façade a mix of decorative elements drawn from different cultures – look out for the classic Chinese stone lions guarding the entrance. 

Manila Cathedral is one of the city's most iconic landmarks.

Afternoon

Casa Manila, in a typical Spanish-style courtyard, was a pet project of the infamous Imelda Marcos. It’s a replica of a typical home of the upper-class families who lived in Intramuros in the late Spanish colonial period. For less than $2 you can wander the rooms, which are lavishly decorated with a collection of antique European and Chinese furniture, artworks, and domestic ephemera that give a glimpse into the styles and social mores of the time.

Leaving Casa Manila, duck through the stone archway and up the staircase to Barbara’s Heritage Restaurant, which occupies a typical 19th-century stone house. Delightfully kitsch, Barbara’s adobe walls are hung with gilded-framed portraits of haughty señoritas, and elaborate chandeliers sparkle from wood-panelled ceilings. Staff wear traditional costume, and a trio of troubadours, with a musical repertoire from Spanish ballads to the Bee Gees stroll among the tables. There’s an à la carte menu, but most people seem to favour the buffet – a generous spread of Spanish-Filipino favourites. 

Casa Manila is inspired by the Philippines' Spanish colonial period.

Evening

Follow the lead of hip young YouTubers and Instagrammers who come to Binondo, the world’s oldest Chinatown, to graze through its profusion of street food. Grab a sugar-cane juice then wander down chaotic Ongpin Street and join the queue at Shanghai Fried Siopao. The famous, crisp-bottomed, pork steamed buns (less than $1) are a local interpretation of baozi, or bao buns, introduced by Chinese immigrants. Follow up with a bowl of hand-pulled noodles or some dumplings, then end the evening on a sweet note with a traditional egg tart from Lord Stow’s bakery. And if DIY seems too intimidating, there’s always the option of a guided food tour. 

The Binondo Arch marks the entrance to the historic Chinatown.

DAY TWO: Morning

Just 60km from Manila’s centre, cool, green Tagaytay, at 600m above sea level, is where locals go to escape the humidity. This is coffee country, so grab a precision-made brew and take a tour of the fourth-generation Amadeo Artisano Coffee Farm. 

For lunch, Antonio’s Balay Dako is worth it for the view alone. High on a plateau, the double-storey restaurant overlooks placid Taal Lake, where the caldera of a still-active volcano pierces the jade water. The extensive menu is firmly Filipino, with both traditional and localised versions of dishes brought with occupiers and immigrants. 

View from the People's Park in the Sky in Tagaytay.

Afternoon

Back in the city, change into your comfiest shoes and hit the shops. Prices here are a bargain and Manila’s shopping malls are open daily until 10pm. If you can’t find what you’re looking for at SM Mall of Asia, a massive 40 hectares of international shops and boutiques, then it probably doesn’t exist. For a more local flavour, the Silahis Centre in Intramuros is a two-storey store and gallery that stocks Philippine antiques, arts and handicrafts; from woven baskets to carved wooden keepsakes, textiles, ceramics and more. 

The SM Mall of Asia ranks among the world's biggest shopping centres.

Evening

Tonight, dine at the airport. Blackbird at the Nielson Tower occupies what was, until 1948, Manila’s airport terminal. There’s a moodily lit bar in the former check-in area and private dining up the elegantly curved Art Deco staircase of the control tower, while the ground floor buzzes with diners at tables overlooking what was once the tarmac. The menu is refined and international, with excellent wood-fired pizzas and pasta, alongside modern Asian dishes.

Salute the end of your stay with a nightcap at a hidden speakeasy. Walk down 30th Street just past the Shangri-La Hotel until you see a shoeshine station behind a glass door. Enter and ask for access to The Back Room. They’ll escort you to a black door marked “staff only”, which opens into a stylish, dimly lit bar with a sophisticated cocktail list. If you’re lucky, they might even show you the hidden “lab” where they brew mixers and ferments as well as their own gin, The Bee’s Knees, made from native botanicals. With each drink coming with an attached conversation starter card (“Name your best mistake” for instance), it’s a heap of (somewhat dangerous) fun.

The writer was a guest of Qantas and Tourism Philippines.

Shangri-la The Fort hotel, Manila.

How to get to Manila from Australia

Qantas flies directly to Manila from Sydney daily (economy from $989) and Brisbane, on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturdays (economy from $904). 

Where to stay in Manila

Shangri-La The Fort is an impressive five-star hotel in the tranquil BGC area, close to shopping and museums. 

How to get around Manila

Manila has a light rail system (LRT) and a metro rail (MRT) but getting around can involve multiple changes between stations. The best option is to download the app and use Grab (an Asian alternative to Uber). 

Originally published as I spent 48 hours in Manila, this is the ultimate 2 day itinerary