I spent 3 days at the USA's most surprising ski resort, Heavenly Mountain

Crossing the US states of Nevada and California, this epic resort on Lake Tahoe offers twice the thrills for a ski trip.

Like siblings hugging in a snowstorm, Heavenly Mountain Resort has two distinct sides – one in Nevada and the other California. 

Here’s how to ski both in 72 hours, enjoying stunning Lake Tahoe views, epic tree runs, swathes of powder and a fun village.

DAY ONE: Afternoon

Turn away from famous Lake Tahoe and point your rental all-wheel drive uphill, along a narrow road hugged by old lodges. You’ll weave around bends that become increasingly white with snow until you find yourself side-by-side with skiers zipping down one of Heavenly’s home trails.

Instead of parking and racing onto the slopes, climb higher to the behemoth that is Tahoe Ridge Resort, a Holiday Inn Club Vacations property clinging to the mountainside. Spend the afternoon in the resort’s heated pool, partially undercover but mostly not, and enjoy the magic of tiny flakes dancing to the water.

Dinner

One of the benefits of staying in a resort as large as Tahoe Ridge is you don’t need to leave. In the main building, you can play pool and ping-pong, then enjoy burgers at The Ridge Club Bistro. If you feel like eating in your apartment, there’s the small Marketplace on site, or you can drive 30 minutes down the mountain into Gardnerville for groceries.

Tahoe Ridge Resort.

DAY TWO: Morning

After frying up bacon and eggs in your apartment, catch Tahoe Ridge Resort’s fun Skier Express gondola to Stagecoach Express. The chairlift leads to some of the mountain’s best intermediate runs, and if the snow has fallen thick and fast overnight, you can take advantage of the advanced wooded areas, chutes and bowls on the Nevada side of Heavenly.

Lunch

By lunchtime, make your way to Tamarack Lodge, a handy meeting point for friends riding opposite sides of the resort. There is plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, so nab a table and cover it with plates of chicken tenders, pizzas and bowls of chilli.

Heavenly Mountain Gondola.

Afternoon

If you’re travelling with kids, take it slow in the beginner zone outside Tamarack Lodge. This is where you’ll find the children’s Ski & Ride School, as well as tubing and an alpine coaster. Families can access the tubing and coaster – without the need to ski – via Heavenly’s gondola, caught from the heart of Heavenly Village, on the California side.

Evening

Enjoy an easy apartment dinner before making your way to Tahoe Ridge’s single-room cinema to watch a complimentary screening of The Super Mario Bros Movie. Before you go, grab a packet of microwave popcorn from the Marketplace.

Snowboard lessons on the resort’s Californian side. Picture: Jennifer Ennion

DAY THREE: Morning

Enjoy a day off the slopes as you move to the California side of Heavenly where there’s a pedestrian village full of restaurants, bars and shops, including big-brand stores such as Showcase and Patagonia. If you prefer community stores oozing authenticity, drive to The Village Board Shop to browse a top range of boards and outerwear. 

Lunch

You’re spoilt for choice for village dining options, but for something simple and affordable, swing by Sugar Pine Bakery for cinnamon scrolls and apple pies. Or for a real change of pace you can join locals at Cuppa Tahoe, a café in a bookshop with fabulous cosy nooks filled with vintage furniture and chalkboards. Order one of the specialty drinks, such as the caramelised pear tea latte. 

The Baked Bear ice-cream sandwich. Picture: Jennifer Ennion

Afternoon

Head back to the village for a spin on the small Heavenly Village Ice Rink before heading to The Baked Bear for an over-the-top ice-cream cookie sandwich. With bellies stretched, check into Forest Suites Resort, a sprawling low-level property a short stroll from Heavenly Mountain Gondola. It has an inviting foyer lounge, outdoor hot tubs, and apartments with full kitchens. 

Dinner

Skip the tourist traps and cross the highway to Poké Rok, offering visitors a refreshing break from burgers and fried food. Order a giant sushi roll with crab or shrimp, or a poke bowl brimming with ahi tuna, salmon or teriyaki chicken. Your body will thank you for it. pokeroktahoe.com

Forest Suites Resort at Heavenly Village.

DAY FOUR: Morning

Forest Suites offers a decent free buffet breakfast of pancakes, hash browns and sausages. You can then catch the gondola to mid-mountain or, to fully experience the California side of Heavenly, hop on the free shuttle to California Lodge. Eager skiers jump on the chairlift here, but if the weather is particularly wild, line up for the aerial tramway. There’s a stack of epic runs on this side of the mountain, especially if you score a fresh snow day. If you’re advanced, drop into Powder Bowl Woods and be sure to ride the black terrain back to the base at the end of the day.

Lunch

Lakeview Lodge is a great lunch spot, offering a cosy respite from a snowstorm. This lodge is the quintessential back-to-basics experience with plenty of character and window seats. Make yourself a cup of hot apple cider, order the gyro and grab a rocky road cookie while they’re warm.

Afternoon

Spend the rest of the day lapping your favourite runs. If it’s snowing heavily, keep your eyes on the opening of the Sky Express chair so you can claim more fresh turns through trees or down fast blues. (Sky Express offers some of the best views of Lake Tahoe on clear days.) Celebrate a day of fun riding back at Forest Suites Resort with free s’mores by an outdoor fire.

The writer was a guest of Vail Resorts, South Lake Tahoe and Visit California.

Skiers enjoy great views of Lake Tahoe.

How to get to Heavenly Mountain Resort

The closest airport to Heavenly Mountain Resort is in Reno, Nevada, but save yourself the hassle of two flights and travel with Qantas into San Francisco where you can collect a hire car for an easy 3.5-hour drive to Lake Tahoe. Find more travel tips at visitlaketahoe.com; visitcalifornia.com; travelnevada.com

Where to stay at Heavenly Mountain Resort

Tahoe Ridge Resort is an on-snow property with a restaurant, games room, activities centre, pool, hot tubs, saunas and free shuttle. In town, Forest Suites Resort is a great mid-range, family option, a short stroll to Heavenly Mountain Gondola. 

Skiing/snowboarding tips 

The Heavenly ski season is from mid-November to mid-April, snow dependent. If you’re snowboarding in the Tahoe region for several days, buy an Epic Australia Pass for unlimited riding at three Aussie resorts, as well as Heavenly. 

Originally published as I spent 3 days at the USA's most surprising ski resort, Heavenly Mountain