This hidden alleyway is Kuala Lumpur's hottest spot

Once a dump off a backstreet in Chinatown, Kwai Chai Hong is now a cultural hotspot.

When described in basic terms, Kwai Chai Hong is barely impressive. It’s a small alleyway that was once a dump off a backstreet in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown that now has artworks on the walls of a few battered buildings.

And yet the reality is so striking. The previously neglected Kwai Chai Hong has been refurbished, opening in 2019 as an art and story destination that offers a peek into the KL of long ago.

It’s a major Chinatown attraction, but it has to be said the approach – a block off the main Chinatown strip Petaling Street – is not promising. Frenetic Petaling Street market is jammed with stalls, street vendors and tables of casual diners, all of which makes Chinatown a great place to visit but not exactly where you expect to find inspiring art.

Even after turning the corner, navigating boxes and bags of produce belonging to nearby restaurants in the tight laneway doesn’t add much promise. But take a few steps along Lorong Panggung and the reason why visitors flock here is revealed.

You can easily miss the unprepossessing entrance to Kwai Chai Hong. Way more attention-grabbing is the row of fluoro-yellow shophouses alongside the entrance that are also part of the redevelopment. The shophouses and the alleyway offer a step back in time to the 1960s, when KL’s Chinatown was in its prime.

There’s the graceful lady artwork made from thousands of porcelain pieces keeping guard from her seat. Picture: Supplied.

Kwai Chai Hong translates into English as “Little Demon Alley”, as it was once where the local kids played and got up to mischief. More sinister tales tell of gangsters, drug dealers and working girls once plying their trades. Not that you’ll find any of that these days. With all the artworks and images inside the alley, you’re more likely to be dodging other visitors attempting to get the best shots in this made-for-Instagram setting.

First impressions count for plenty stepping inside Kwai Chai Hong’s gates. There’s the graceful lady artwork made from thousands of porcelain pieces keeping guard from her seat to the right, and straight ahead is the red bridge made up from reclaimed wood salvaged from across the building site during the restoration.

On the other side of the bridge is where the many tales begin to unfurl. Murals vividly depict the daily lives of Chinese residents during the 1960s, including Cabaret Girl, Little Girl Peering Out of the Window, and Couple Wall. Some artwork is interactive, like the mural of the barber about to commence work, with a real barber chair situated in front. Get in line to sit in the chair for the perfect Insta snap.

Murals vividly depict the daily lives of Chinese residents during the 1960s, including the Little Girl Peering Out of the Window. Picture: Javier Chor (supplied).

Scan QR codes on the walls next to each mural to hear the stories behind the scenes depicted. In the case of the man playing the traditional Erhu, the sound of the string instrument comes floating through.

The main attraction is an enormous mural dominating one end of the alley that depicts a bustling street scene from 60 years ago. It’s best seen from the staircase that leads up to a platform, which also offers great views back into the length of the alleyway.

Kwai Chai Hong is not large or even imposing in scale, but this slice of KL has become a must-visit attraction for the way it’s streamlined art, stories and history into one experience.

Kwai Chai Hong is not large or even imposing in scale, but this slice of KL has become a must-visit attraction. Picture: Supplied.

The impact the alleyway is having on the area can also be seen outside along Lorong Panggung, where new murals have begun appearing along the laneway, telling more tales of this area. And there’s no shortage of those in this part of town.

When to visit Kwai Chai Hong

Kwai Chai Hong is open from 9am to midnight every day, and it’s best to visit early in the day before the crowds flock in. A special annual art exhibition occurs during Chinese New Year in late January and that’s when it’s a must to be waiting outside the gates when they open at 9am.

How to get to Kuala Lumpur from Australia

Malaysian Airlines flies from Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth into Kuala Lumpur, with Brisbane returning to the schedule in March.

Kwai Chai Hong is open from 9am to midnight every day, and it’s best to visit early in the day before the crowds flock in. Picture: Supplied.

Where to stay in Kuala Lumpur

EQ Kuala Lumpur is only a short train ride away. Rooms are from $320 a night.

What is the best way to get around in Kuala Lumpur?

With two train lines, light rail, monorail and five bus hubs, crisscrossing KL by public transport is easy. The KL TravelPass offers two days of unlimited trips, including the airport link, for $45.

The writer was a guest of Malaysia Airlines and EQ KL Hotel.

Originally published as This hidden alleyway is Kuala Lumpur's hottest spot