Fake nails may look great, but are there risks associated with getting them done regularly? With the help of experts, one writer unpacks the more insidious long-term effects they might be having on our health.

Despite being beauty-obsessed, I’ve never been much of a nail person. The few times I’ve had fake nails, I wasn’t happy with the results and found them intensely irritating.

That all changed when my friends bought me a voucher to get my nails done for my 30th birthday. The cool girl manicurist I went to understood my vision immediately and the appeal of fake nails suddenly became clear to me. 

Since then, I’ve had a new artfully designed set every five to six weeks, and I look forward to getting them in the same way I look forward to getting my hair or eyebrows done.

But I’m curious what toll my penchant for fake nails is taking on my health long-term. To find out, I spoke to several experts, asking them exactly what happens to our nails and overall wellbeing when we regularly get fake nails.

The reality of wearing fake nails

According to naturopath Leila DiQuinzio, there are “many health risks involved in the process”. 

She tells me the type of glue salons use, whether there’s an infection that’s being covered up, accidental and traumatic removal and the process of filing and soaking the nails in acetone all make fake nails a sometimes risky choice for your health. 

Moreover, our natural nails can provide important insights into our inner health, and constantly covering them up means we can miss vital clues that something more serious is amiss in our bodies. 

“From looking at the texture, colour and growth pattern of a patient’s nails I can identify suspected nutrient deficiencies and health concerns,” DiQuinzio explains.

There are brands and salons in Australia that are focused on doing things differently, though. 

Emma Louise Paxton founded her award-winning eco nail polish brand Pax Polish after realising there was a gap in the market for a brand that delivered salon-quality results without the chemical load. 

“Our nail plate is porous, and our cuticles are even more permeable which means we need to be conscious of anything we paint onto our nails as it will soak into our bloodstream and can affect us," she says, when I ask her just how worried we should be about our bodies absorbing the chemicals used in the fake nail application process

“We should also consider the fumes that are inhaled every time we pop into our local nail salon or bust out traditional polishes and removers at home. It all adds up.”

For Emma Forrest, the founder of the nail salon chain Buff, the health of her clients’ nails has always been a priority, which is why she encourages them to embrace their natural nails instead of opting for fake nails.

"For the health-conscious person, we say research your salon or technician and make sure they know what they're doing, use high-quality products and value protecting the health of your nails as the number one priority. And perhaps ask yourself if you can commit to embracing your natural nails and taking them on a journey to good health,” she says.

Unpacking the chemical load

So what chemicals are actually involved in the fake nail application process, and just how dangerous are they to our health?

“Acrylates are the main ingredient in acrylic nails, a compound which takes around 200 years to decompose, releasing toxic gases into the environment as it does so,” DiQuinzio says.

Methyl methacrylate (MMA) is a bonding agent that’s used to make fake nails adhere more strongly and set faster. DiQuinzio tells me the side effects, both short-term and long-term, can be worrying.

“It can lead to allergic reactions, loosening of the nail, nail damage, deformities in nail growth, permanent damage to the nail plate and even permanent loss of sensation in the fingertips.” 

While the risk is far higher for nail technicians who are regularly exposed to MMA, she tells me at-home kits sometimes contain the chemical. MMA is banned in many countries but not in Australia as it’s regularly used to make other products.

That being said, its use in nail salons is “strongly discouraged and a good salon will avoid MMA”, says DiQuinzio.

Forrest agrees, telling me that MMA is an ingredient “you want to absolutely steer clear of”, noting it’s often found in dodgy acrylic products.

Other common ingredients are dibutyl phthalate (DBP), toluene and formaldehyde, something DiQuinzio tells me is often referred to as the ‘toxic trio’.

“DBP is used in nail polish and polish hardener and can cause irritation of the respiratory tract and eyes and lead to nausea. Animal testing showed reproductive issues, developmental delays and birth defects, leading it to be classified as a reproductive and developmental toxicant,” she explains.

Toluene is commonly used in nail polish and nail glue, but DiQuinzio says significant exposure can have worrying effects: “It can lead to irritated lungs, throat and eyes, damage the nervous system and even cause birth defects if pregnant.”

Formaldehyde, which you may have heard of, is used in nail polish too, and also in nail hardener. It’s an irritant to the skin, throat and eyes and even at low concentrations has been shown to reduce short-term memory. Most worryingly, DiQuinzio says it’s also been linked to cancer, particularly nasopharyngeal cancer and leukaemia.

Forrest says this toxic trio is “absolutely blacklisted” at each of Buff’s salons: “They are either known carcinogenic and endocrine disruptors, skin irritants or neurotoxins,” she tells me.

Likewise, Paxton steers clear of these ingredients. Her range of Pax polishes is free from something she calls ‘the toxic 10’ –  formaldehyde, tosylamide formaldehyde resin, ethyl tosylamide, toluene, DBP, xylene, triphenyl phosphate, camphor, animal-derived ingredients, benzophenone-1 and styrene acrylates.

While the long-term impacts of regularly wearing fake nails aren’t completely known, both Paxton and DiQuinzio flag that there are studies that have shown that chemicals used in the fake nail application process can be absorbed into the body and have adverse effects.

“With the individual chemicals being linked to serious conditions such as cancer, birth defects and endocrine changes, these are all important aspects to consider when deciding whether to regularly use fake nails,” says DiQuinzio.

How to minimise the risks

If, like me, you’re not ready to entirely give up on fake nails, there are ways to minimise the damage.

Getting acrylics applied regularly can leave your nails brittle, peeling and flaking, but Forrest emphasises that going to a good salon that uses high-quality products with fewer toxic chemicals can make all the difference.

“It's the person, not the product that is most often causing damage to your nails which is why finding a trained, qualified nail technician is paramount. Ask your tech what products they use and what's in them – do your research gals!

"Nail enhancements are fine if you're committed to regular upkeep, visit a trained technician who knows what they're doing and are committed to protecting the integrity of your nails.” 

Likewise, DiQuinzio drives home the importance of researching the salon you go to and the products they use.

“If you are really keen on fake nails, search for a salon that uses products which are as low-tox as possible, such as avoiding MMA. The salon should have exceptional ventilation and sterilisation procedures to help prevent side effects and infection.

"Skip the cuticle cutting and the UV lamp, never try to remove the nails yourself and moisturise regularly to prevent drying and cracking. Lastly, have them done rarely or occasionally rather than regularly.”

And if subjecting your body to the chemicals that are part of the fake nail application process has become less appealing, Forrest tells me you can work with your manicurist to get your natural nails healthy, long and strong.

“We like to challenge clients as to what their nail goals are. If you'd love to have naturally long, strong nails, with a little patience and the right products to assist your nail growth journey you can absolutely achieve this. 

“Also, nothing says effortless beauty like embracing natural, bare, beautifully manicured nails with a naked manicure. With a proper nail care routine of hydration, cuticle care and shaping, bare, healthy and shiny natural nails really steal the spotlight.”