‘Almost always a man’: Ben Shewry lifts lid on ‘problematic’ restaurant culture
One of Australia’s most acclaimed chefs has exposed the magnitude of misogyny, sexual assault and harassment in the hospitality industry.
Restaurants & Bars
Don't miss out on the headlines from Restaurants & Bars. Followed categories will be added to My News.
One of Australia’s most acclaimed chefs, Ben Shewry, has further exposed the magnitude of misogyny, sexual assault and harassment faced by women in the hospitality industry.
In his new book, Uses for Obsession: A Chef’s Memoir, the executive chef and owner of award-winning Melbourne restaurant, Attica, shares a number of harrowing encounters experienced by current and former female staffers during their careers.
Among the anecdotes is one from Shewry’s wife and Attica’s restaurant manager, Kylie, concerning a former boss, who is given the pseudonym “Cerdo” (Spanish for “pig”) and once said: “If you’d like to know how good she is at her job, you can take her into the toilets and find out.”
Another concerns a former Attica waiter, Amy. After accidentally pouring the wrong wine for a male diner – a doctor – at the venue, he lashed out, smashing the bottle and damaging part of the restaurant’s door. Shewry reveals in Uses for Obsession that Amy “no longer works in hospitality”.
“Amy is many waiters,” he adds. “Amy is almost always a woman. The doctor is almost always a man.”
Speaking to The Guardian ahead of his memoir’s release, Shewry emphasised the role men need to play in ensuring a positive workplace culture.
At Attica, where employee safety and respect is taken seriously, throwaway sexist remarks are not tolerated, and women are listened to. There are also no knock-off drinks for employees.
“One of my strongest beliefs is that any manager, any owner, any restaurateur, chef, waiter or sommelier that oversees a culture of excessive drinking, drugs, partying … is guaranteeing a problematic workplace,” Shewry told the outlet.
His observations are particularly timely. A major investigation into one of Sydney’s biggest restaurant groups, Swillhouse, recently exposed allegations of sexual misconduct, assault and rampant drug and alcohol misuse, sparking industry-wide fallout.
The revelations have also thrown the “endemic levels” of what the United Workers Union described last year as hospitality’s “systemic sexual harassment and gender-based violence problem” into sharp focus.
As many as 9 in 10 hospitality workers have experienced sexual harassment, according to Sexual Harassment Australia. Nearly as many (84.7 per cent) admit to witnessing other people being harassed by their boss or co-workers.
“Men are often situated in positions of power within the industry, and support the careers of other men even when they engage in abusive behaviour,” a University of Melbourne report, titled Not So Hospitable, reads.
The study, which delves into the “boys’ club” nature of the Australian hospitality scene, was based on information gathered by South Australian sexologist, researcher and former hospitality worker, Jamie Bucirde.
“This attitude fosters a culture where misconduct and harassment are excused or even condoned particularly when perpetrated by male employees in positions of power.”
Co-owner of Melbourne’s Goodwater bar, Nathaniel White, made similar observations in a lengthy statement – and call to arms – off the back of the Swillhouse expose in August.
“If the women telling their stories have the capacity to fight for a better hospitality industry for everyone in it, then it’s everyone else’s responsibility to actively try and make a change,” he wrote.
“As a man, at this point saying something is literally the bare minimum for not being a pr*ck. Listening is normal. Doing something is just being a good community member. Calling out your mates is doing the right thing.”
It’s on men in the industry, White said, “who have been complacent and cultivated cultures through laziness where people do horrible things to look internally, genuinely apologise and take action”.
“It’s on men who f**k up or who have f**ked up in a minor way to fix it as best they can. Say sorry and actually change,” he continued.
“It’s on men to call out other men at the smallest red flag. It’s on men to make sure women feel safe enough in the industry to take immediate action when they are assaulted.”
He concluded: “Good men, can we please take some of this weight off our peers’ shoulders and share the load together? We step up, or they get assaulted. It’s that simple.”
Originally published as ‘Almost always a man’: Ben Shewry lifts lid on ‘problematic’ restaurant culture