Where to eat and drink this weekend

If you’re looking for fine wines, a four-course meal and stunning vineyard views Dan Stock has found the place for you. Or if pasta with pizzazz is more your taste, here’s a tortelli that’s cross-town-for great.

If you’re looking for fine wines, a four-course meal and stunning vineyard views Dan Stock has found the place for you. Or if pasta with pizzazz is more your taste, here’s a tortelli worth crossing town for.

FOR A GIN FLING

For many years, Tani Eat and Drink was Bright’s must-do dining destination and so when it closed there were tears from locals and visitors alike.

But rather than move on Hamish Nugent and Rachel Reed just moved around the corner, turning their attention fully to gin.

In a converted mechanics workshop, the couple opened the doors to Reed & Co 16 months ago, where you’ll now often see Hamish in the distillery tinkering with his still, Molly, and his next batch of gin.

The namesake Remedy Gin is a unique blend of local botanicals including eucalyptus, pine and mountain pepper, with green tea and shiso accents reflecting the duo’s love of and time spent in Japan.

Open from Friday through Monday for gin tastings and cocktails, when he’s not distilling Hamish is tending the red gum-fired grill on which a range of snacks and share plates are cooked.

Following a similar local-produce-simply-treated ethos that was employed at Tani to such acclaim, cured meats and marinated olives might precede local trout or aged beef on the grill, with Remedy and other gins, or a splash of local wine, to go with.

Reed & Co Distillery, 15 Wills St, Bright. reedandcodistillery.com

Pumpkin tortelli from Giro D Italia in Carlton. Picture: Rebecca Michael

FOR PASTA WITH PIZZAZZ

Chef Domenico de Marco — who hails from outside Bologna — opened his first restaurant, L’Altro Mondo in Albert Park, five years ago.

Though well-received, he’s pared back the tricksy, fusion elements that defined that offering and is instead serving a simple menu of classics — one dish from each of italy’s main regions — at his fabulous four-month-old North Carlton restaurant.

And word has already spread that his tortelli is cross-town-for great.

Finished a la minute — meaning each pasta pocket is filled, folded and sealed to order — these sunshine-vibrant plump packets of sweet roasted pumpkin come swimming in nutty butter in which sage has been fried crisp. Amaretti cookie crumbs add a sprinkle of almond sweetness that complements the pumpkin’s richness.

Equally memorable gnocchi comes tossed through a rich duck ragu with a clever spritz of orange that brightens the lot, it’s a cold-night winner.

Tiramisu from Giro D Italia. Picture: Rebecca Michael

From the focaccia he serves with a side of Napoli for dunking, to the pork and fennel sausages he makes up the road at Skinner and Hackett, Domenico is kneading and baking, rolling and making and roasting and toasting and catching a few hours kip in between upstairs. His restaurant is a true labour of love.

And there’s much to love about the cotoletta valdostana, a hefty crunchy-crumbed puck of veal that’s stuffed with fontina cheese and smoky ham. Underneath, a swizzle of housemade aioli with a confident amount of garlic, atop a few super crunchy potato wedges.

To finish, don’t miss the excellent tiramisu. Made to Domenico’s nonna’s recipe, it’s a cream-heavy version with a tickle of coffee and firm-but-fluffy sponge.

With a name referencing Italy’s answer to the Tour de France, Giro D Italia is a neighbourhood favourite worth a visit from afar. Get on your bike.

Giro D’Italia, 651 Rathdowne St, North Carlton. giroditalia.com.au

The selection of snacks from Paringa Estate. Picture: Nicki Connolly

FOR A FINE WINE TIME

Simon Tarlington spent the past four years at Highline in Windsor making the most of the owners’ Strathbogie Ranges farm that supplied the restaurant but when they sold the farm Highline lost its raison d etre, and so both he and manager Eric Wagnon were in need of a job.

The duo soon ended up at Lindsay McCall’s Mornington Peninsula winery, one of the loveliest little rooms enjoying one of best vineyard views across three-decade-old pinot and chardonnay vines.

With the new team, a new look for tables that are now simply set with autumnal produce from the garden — dear little pumpkins on vine leaves this visit — and twine-wrapped linen napkins.

Come on a weekend for lunch and a set four courses are on offer (there’s an option for six) while dinner is a six-course only affair but whatever you choose you’ll get some snacks to begin — of course — that are as fun as they delicious.

Sheep's milk yoghurt dessert with plum juice. Picture: Nicki Connolly

A terrific little vegemite scroll (another Highline hit) that’s all salty buttery crunch is joined by the poshest devils on horseback you ever did see: Paringa pinot-soaked prunes wrapped in lamb bacon. The trio is rounded out by a fun little take on green eggs and ham, where whipped parsley foam is topped by a sticky confit yolk.

Warm pumpkin scrolls with good housemade butter are the intermission before a piece of Otways lamb that’s hidden under slivers of pumpkin and a handful of crushed nuts and seeds. A broth heady with eucalyptus is poured at the table, adding a summer bushwalk to the gamy meat.

While most will be happy to plunder the cellar filled to bursting with back vintages of the excellent estate wine, the list has been augmented by a Euro-leaning selection with an impressive 30-plus offered by the glass, with the more expensive also served by the half glass.

A wonderfully light parfait of Meredith’s goat’s yoghurt comes nestled next to an orb of verjuice sorbet with preserved plum juice also poured at the table, while a showstopping finale features fire and marshmallows and is worth the price of admission alone.

Paringa Estate, 44 Paringa Rd, Red Hill South. paringaestate.com.au