Top chefs reveal favourite restaurants and places to eat in Victoria
WHEN they’re not in their own kitchens, pro chefs love to explore other foodie havens across Victoria. Three of the state’s best culinary masters tell us their go-tos for a good feed.
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WHEN they’re not in their own kitchens, pro chefs love to explore other foodie havens across Victoria.
Three of the state’s best culinary masters tell us their go-tos for a good feed.
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DAN HUNTER, BRAE
Birregurra is on the world’s culinary map thanks to Brae, where chef Dan Hunter has won every restaurant trophy imaginable.
But there are more delicious reasons to visit the little town a couple of hours southwest of Melbourne.
Just ask the chef.
“We love it in Birre,” Hunter says. “And it’s beautiful in spring down here.”
His new favourite is Birregurra Farm Foods (43 Main St), taken over last month by Simon and Kara Stewart.
The couple spruced up the Main St provedore and restaurant with a quick renovation, and switched the whole focus to super-local produce.
The Stewarts had previously run acclaimed paddock-to-plate restaurant Bespoke Harvest in Forrest, a half-hour drive south.
“The best thing is that the provedore is open seven days a week, with all sorts of cool local food in there,” Hunter says.
“And Simon’s a great cook, so everyone in the town is really happy.”
If there is any doubt that Birregurra has evolved from farming village to food destination, check out the baker in the local bank building.
Otway Artisan bakery (77 Main St) has a cult following for its handmade gluten-free breads, along with cakes and some seriously good coffee.
“I love eating their bread,” Hunter says. “We often drop in … it’s a really nice place for coffee, and they make great focaccias and pizza bases.”
ROBIN WICKENS, ROYAL MAIL HOTEL
Birregurra is not the only small town transformed by dining and produce.
Food, wine and other tasty delicacies have become destinations in their own right.
Towns such as Dunkeld in Victoria’s west are complete food villages, with the much-lauded Royal Mail Hotel luring hundreds of visitors every week.
But every so often, the Royal Mail’s executive chef, Robin Wickens, takes a day off to enjoy the region’s local pub grub.
His current favourite is the Bunyip Hotel (17-25 Scott St) in Cavendish, a 20-minute drive northwest of Dunkeld, where chef James Campbell is cooking an excellent corned beef with kimchi.
ALLA WOLF-TASKER, LAKE HOUSE
Even the smallest village pubs are offering something extra to diners.
And nobody knows that better than Alla Wolf-Tasker, Daylesford’s doyenne of regional food, who started the whole gastro-tourism trend more than 30 years ago when she built the Lake House (4 King St) from scratch with her artist husband, Allan.
Wolf-Tasker’s acclaimed restaurant has grown into an internationally famous boutique hotel and cooking school.
She’s also plotting a gastronomy institute for the region, adding more culinary cred.
This leaves little time to enjoy neighbouring food gems in Victoria’s beautiful Central Highlands, but she has a few regular haunts, such as the Surly Goat (3 Tenth St) in Hepburn Springs.
“It’s usually two or four of us, and my favourite spot is on the corner of the bar where I can wave hello at the kitchen and be given lip by Simon Bevanda (the surly goat),” Wolf-Tasker says.
“He mixes an extremely good Negroni, and makes simple, delicious food.
“And I really enjoy Jackie’s on Vincent (1/123 Vincent St, Daylesford) ... it’s probably best visited as part of a boisterous shared table of six or eight with a ‘just feed me’ attitude, but Jackie and his wife, Lisa, (both Lake House alumni) cook and serve their heart out in this simple great-value place and deserve every success.
“I’ve enjoyed everything from a goat curry to a huge-on-flavour seafood stew here. But I’ve also been known to stop by for takeaway hot and sour soup and Jackie’s dumplings on my way home up the hill. Call in advance and they’ll be waiting for you. After a big day of exploring our beautiful region it might be all you need.”
Wolf-Tasker also enjoys visiting Passing Clouds’ cellar door for the charcuterie platters in the rustic restaurant (30 Roddas Lane, Musk), along with Dos Deli (2/97 Vincent St, Daylesford) for its “tremendous range of cheeses and fabulous toasties”.
And one more tip. If you visit Wombat Hill House, her Daylesford cafe in the beautiful Wombat Hill Botanic Gardens, keep an eye out for plant sales at the adjacent shed, run by Friends of Wombat Gardens volunteers.
When Wolf-Tasker takes a break with her family, they often head to Wye River on the Surf Coast. “It’s a long-time favourite spot,” she says.
“Only one general store, which has great breakfast, and one good pub with a dress circle location where one can almost touch the waves.
“Both get far too busy in peak periods so we tend to rely on barbecues, with stellar supplies from a local seafood supplier, who pops up at markets and towns.
“But you do need to keep a watch on her movements via social media. In summer there’s often good catches of local whiting.”
She stops in Lorne on the way for a Greek feast with a modern twist at Ipsos (48 Mountjoy Pde): “Beautifully cooked fish and wonderful chargrilled octopus are a given, but recent treats have included grilled kefalograviera with cumquats and a delicious duck ragout.”
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