Mr Jones adds Euro bistro flair to Ballarat most exciting food destination in the state
Ballarat has boomed in 2018 to become Victoria’s most exciting food destination, but it’s a stalwart of the city that is turning heads with his newest venture. A smart, unfussy and deeply delicious take on elegant Euro bistro styles, the culinary gold rush flows on, writes Dan Stock.
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Well, this is a first. Though I haven’t spent the past week trawling dusty archives and scanning microfiche, I can say with some confidence this is the first time Ballarat has featured so many times on these pages within the one year.
At the risk of pouring artisan-distilled fuel on the rivalry between the Goldfields’ two cities, when it comes to wine-dine good times, boy, Bendigo has some catching up to do.
But it wasn’t that long ago that Ballarat was equally sleepy. In fact, prior to this year the only place with real culinary cred was Catfish, which was serving some of the best Thai food in state.
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It was a bad news/good news story when Damien Jones announced mid-year he was closing his five-year old restaurant. While it was sad to see Catfish go, happily Damien and wife Danielle weren’t going anywhere and reopened Euro bistro Mr Jones in its place.
It was out with the bold black-and-red of the Catfish dining room and in with a smart look of slate grey carpets and a black sculptural mirrored ceiling, large picture windows let the light and historic Bakery Hill surrounds in.
Come summer, a large streetside deck will provide for alfresco sipping and supping but tonight, the dining room is three quarters full on a Wednesday night.
Locals have embraced this change in direction from the salt-sweet-heat triumvirate of Thai to the refined/rustic bistro charms of chicken and bacon terrine and duck confit rolls, goats’ cheese dumplings and roast suckling pig.
And it’s easy to get caught up in the good times thanks to a great young team who keep the welcome warm and the cold drinks quickly coming, who (mostly) know their way around the menu but will happily defer to Damien in the open kitchen when stumped. Little touches, such as asking before pouring a second bottle of sparkling water, are all class.
It makes for an all-round easily enjoyable package, helped in no small way by cooking that’s smart, unfussy and deeply delicious.
You choose your own dining destiny from a range of bites.
Soft Sher wagyu cheek comes rolled in dukkah for clever crunch, sweetly fragrant masterstock drizzled over the top. Juicy radish provides contrast and finishes a richly rewarding plate ($18).
A terrific spring salad makes a rightful hero of Shaw River buffalo mozzarella. The juicy, soft cheese that’s as good as any you’d find in Italy is shredded through a tumble of fresh broad beans, salty olives and slivers of pickled garlic. Marinated baby artichokes add their unique brand of pliant chew, candied cumquat an inspired addition of sweet citrus. A few torn basil leaves and you have a salad that’s fresh, bright and a fabulous opener ($18).
The housemade morcilla is also excellent. Less cinnamon sweet than others, it’s a meatier version with chunky pork bits scattered throughout the rich, heady dark sausage that’s fried crisp. Spiced quince paste and crunchy apple add fruity foil to another plate filled with lovely flavours.
As is the wine list, a sharp few-page document of Victorian interest and French connection, with whites leaning into the brightly aromatic wind — the excellent Billy Bunton King Valley pinot gris friulano blend is an eminently drinkable $9/$43 — and bigger, bolder reds as demanded by diners who also prefer their meats cooked country well rather than city rare.
A lack of pink didn’t detract from the four points of lamb served with a crumbed finger of pressed belly meat. Unfortunately the “chic peas” the menu promised alongside weren’t freshly podded beauties wearing an Hermes scarf but indeed chickpeas, though their presence was no less fashionable both in whole spicy braised and in blitzed pureed form ($38).
Elegantly smoked duck with a whole roasted beetroot and red onion is another class act, a couple of walnuts adding just the right amount of bitterness to cut through the meat ($40).
Side dishes include a knockout pumpkin plate, the roasted butternut soft though not mushy and with heaps of crunchy roasted pan bits, with ricotta and almonds adding curd and crunch respectively ($10.50), while broccolini with anchovy is a classic combo that would’ve been even better had the salty fish been cooked into a paste in the pan before the brassicas joined them ($10.50).
Desserts, by Danielle Jones, include a textbook sweet-sharp raspberry sorbet and velvety vanilla ice cream served with rosewater-poached rhubarb and crushed meringue ($16).
This is the type of quietly stylish bistro serving food with bold flavours and creative combos you’d be rapt with if it was in your hood. But it’s yet another feather in Ballarat’s culinary cap, helping to turn the city into the most exciting food destination in the state.
MR JONES
42-44 Main Rd, Bakery Hill, Ballarat
Ph: 5331 5248
Open: Wed (through to Jan) — Sat dinner; Fri lunch
Go-to dish: Morcilla with spiced quince
Score: 14.5/20
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