Lobb right in to Brunswick’s new Sydney Rd cafe
Brunswick’s new cafe Lobbs injects colour and life into the otherwise worn-down Sydney Rd, serving tasty coffee and honest food — including pancakes you’ll want to write home about.
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Brunswick’s new Sydney Rd cafe is well and truly a family affair.
Kael Sahely, his brother Matt, dad Elias and their “family”— Matthew Stribley and chef Jeremy Fraser — from their East Melbourne cafe Square and Compass, opened Lobbs in December.
The cafe, named after farmer William Lobb, who owned land on Lobb’s Hill in the 1800s where the cafe now sits, converts an old toy shop into a funky, licensed warehouse eatery.
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The homely vibe is as strong and warming as the coffee they serve and the message as honest and simple as their food.
Community heroes are immortalised in large portraits on the cafe’s white walls, with another 12 photos by photographer TomRoss to be rotated every three months.
Kael wants the prints to showcase the diversity of the people who call Brunswick home, with Lobbs his gift to a neighbourhoodthat gave him fond childhood memories.
FOOD
The buckwheat pancakes ($17.50, pictured) are Instagram-able, but don’t dismiss them as just
a sickly sweet photo op. This three-stacker is melt-in-your-mouth good, neatly topped with a layer of tart raspberry coulis, cinnamon crumble and a fat quenelle of mascarpone.
Elias used to make Kael a peanut butter and tomato snack as a kid, with the creative combo popping up at Lobbs after becomingsomething of a signature at the group’s other cafes, Barry and Square and Compass. Think two slices of multigrain toast slatheredin crunchy peanut butter, topped with cherry tomatoes, peanuts and a (tiny) bit of basil ($14.50). Worth a try.
You’ll get your money’s worth with the kaiserfleisch sandwich ($16.50), teaming smoky meat, crunchy Turkish bread, friedeggs, pickled shallot, parsley and finger-lickin’ good chilli jam.
DRINK
The team is behind the CBD’s Vacation Coffee and plans to build an in-house roastery out the back of Lobbs by mid-year.
The house blend is easily knocked back, much like the cold and bottomlessbatch brew ($5).
Coffee not your thing? There’s a range of smoothies, juices and teas, with cocktails, prosecco, rose, pinot noir, pinot grigio, beer and cider rounding out the booze options.
SERVICE
We came prepared to queue on a sunny Sunday morning, but were ushered to a table within minutes. Wait staff were attentive, but gave enough alone time to unwind and read the paper.
X FACTOR
The modern fit-out by Techne injects colour and life into the otherwise blank canvas along a worn-down Sydney Rd. There’s a community notice board, communal papers and water bowls for pooches. The open kitchen gives the large warehouse buzz.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
Food is well priced, considering the big portions — don’t attempt the kaiserfleisch sandwich alone unless very hungry. However,a weekend surcharge, to pay staff, adds almost $10 to the final bill.
VERDICT
Lobbs is a cafe with a big heart that repays Brunswick locals in quality, well-executed dishes and good coffee in a vibrant, homely space.
LOBBS
589-591 Sydney Rd, Brunswick
Food: Homely and health-conscious cafe
Hours: Mon-Fri 7am-4.30pm
Sat-Sun 8am-4.30pm
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