Italy’s favourite pasta given breakfast makeover at Lagotto
Slurping strands coated in cheesy and peppery sauce is a real treat, but would you enjoy this Italian staple at breakfast? One Melbourne cafe has created the ultimate mashup — here’s where to try it.
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Trying new things in the kitchen can go one of two ways — flop or fan favourite.
Fitzroy North’s new all-day Italian diner and provedore Lagotto has created an interpretation of bacon and eggs that flips the breakfast classic to make cacio e pepe eggs ($18) — and it works.
The egg scramble riffs on the cheese and pepper pasta of the same name with wafer-crisp pancetta, a few cranks of the pepper grinder and folds of parmesan and asiago cheese.
It’s delicious, with the perfect ratio of creamy and salty goodness reason enough to visit this northside newcomer.
Twins Michael and Katie McCormack are at the helm here, their third venture after popular Collingwood wine bar Congress and buzzy Japanese hot spot Future Future in Richmond.
Lagotto, named after the truffle-hunting dog breed, shares pedigree with Congress in that they both do wine and espresso and occupy the ground floor of a modern apartment building, with Michael behind Milieu Property, the company which owns the York St complex that houses Lagotto.
Since May, locals have been in for early-morning espressos as much as late-night spaghetti twirling and chianti swirling, while in between many neighbourhood kids have lapped up a bowl of bolognese and tiramisu or cannoli for dessert.
The McCormacks brought in David Fisher (former sous chef at Richmond’s The Grand Hotel), who’s well versed in Italian cuisine to spin off breakfast, lunch, dinner, dessert and deli staples.
Lagotto uses the freshest and best of the market haul, which is reflected in weekly changing menu items, such as the burrata ($16) resting on a tangle of amber-hued agrodolce peppers (pan-fried capsicum).
It makes for a vibrant-coloured salad that’s also strewn with toasted almonds and golden raisins, giving a crunch and sweetness to temper the tartness of the peppers.
While the kingfish ($32) — chargrilled rather than cured — scores points for execution, it comes second bite to the refreshing salad of ribboned fennel, dill and orange segments it’s teamed with.
Time between ordering and eating is drawn out to 40 minutes, but at least staff ensured drinks were replenished.
Sip from a wine list of Italian grape varietals (grown in Australia and abroad), including the hazy orange drop, Esoterico, from South Australia.
Or put a pep in your step with Bureaux Collective’s Maltese-inspired coffee blend that’s bitey with subtle floral and fruit flavours, served with biscotti.
Lagotto looks to old-world Milan for its style. Fitzroy’s Flack Studios dressed the walls of the 50-seater in blush-coloured paint and timber panels with burgundy finishings, a speckled-pink terrazzo floor and a long white and grey marble counter as a centrepiece.
MELBOURNE’S TASTIEST FRENCH TOAST
HOT SUBURBS DRAWING BRUNCH CROWD
Art Deco also has a moment, too, in rounded edges and a spiral staircase leading to a bathroom bunkered downstairs.
Another smart consideration is Lagotto’s food store. Time-poor punters can nip in on the way home for essentials such as bread and milk or pick from a range of Italian staples.
Lagotto isn’t afraid to reinvent the wheel, and does so in style, serving homely Italian food that’ll have you saying grazie mille.
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