How to buy and cook the best seafood for Christmas

It wouldn’t be the festive season without indulging in some delicious seafood. From prawns and oysters to crab and crayfish, our expert tips will help you snag the perfect Christmas catch.

Experts, including John Susman, share their best tips and tricks for buying and cooking the best seafood at Christmas. Picture: Hollie Adams

As the festive season approaches, Aussies love nothing more than indulging in delicious seafood, from prawns and oysters to crab and crayfish.

But with so much talk of sustainability, fresh vs frozen and supermarket vs fishmonger, knowing what to buy and where to buy it from can be tricky.

To help, we asked some of the country’s most renowned seafood experts: Fishtales John Susman, delicious. writer and co-author of Australian Fish & Seafood Cookbook Anthony Huckstep and Australia’s Oyster Coast CEO and oyster sommelier Mark Allsopp for their top tips on how to buy and cook the best.

Seafood has seasons just like fruit and veg.

SEASON’S GREETINGS

Just like fruit and veg, seafood has seasons with winter and spring tending to bring about a greater variety of species as they move between water temperatures and locations.

However, Christmas demand can throw all this out, Susman says.

“For many Australians, their only seafood experience will be at Christmas. This skew in demand has resulted in many seafood producers gearing their catching or growing to coincide with this massive increase in demand,” he says.

“Many wildcatch heroes - prawns, crabs, lobsters and Pacific oysters in particular - are actually often in better condition in winter, however, some farmed species, such as tiger prawns, rock oysters, barramundi, salmon and Hiramasa kingfish are in excellent condition over summer.”

John says the white spot prawn tragedy which affected production in Queensland several years ago is passing and many of the tiger prawn farms will be back in production for this Christmas, increasing the local supply.

“It’s interesting to note that probably the best ‘value’ fresh, cooked Australian farmed prawns will be in the supermarkets (with some) very aggressive pricing,” he says.

Mussels are always a favourite.

REPUTATION IS EVERYTHING

When it comes to buying seafood, you want to know you’re buying it from a reputable source and that comes down to relationships, Susman says.

“I reckon you should always have a better relationship with your fishmonger than your hairdresser and so asking them for advice throughout the year will deliver in spades at Christmas time when it comes to ensuring you buy the best,” he says.

When purchasing oysters, Allsopp says buying from the oyster farmer is the absolute best option, as you’ll know the oyster is straight from the water.

“If you’re in the city and can’t get to a farmer, make sure the fishmonger is holding the rock oyster at the correct temperature and opening as close to the sale time as possible - ask before you buy,” he says.

A MATTER OF SUSTAINABILITY

As Australians become more aware of our impact on the oceans and ensuring there is plenty of fish for future generations, buying sustainable species has become a focal point.

There are several online resources you can use to see if the fish you’re buying is sustainable such as sustainableseafood.org.au and marineconservation.org.au; or ask your fishmonger.

“Ask where the seafood comes from, how it was caught or grown and if you want to be confident about it’s sustainability, ask if it is Australian or if it is imported, does it have a third-party certification (such as MSC, Friend of the Sea),” Susman says.

“The major supermarkets have done an amazing job in improving their range, quality and commitment to sustainability.”

Mussels were among the experts top picks this Christmas.

THE PERFECT CATCH

We’ve all been taught to look for clear eyes when selecting the best fish, but Susman says there are a few other key attributes to keep in mind to ensure you get the pick of the catch.

“Select a fish that has bright clear eyes, red gills, resilient flesh so it springs back when pushed, a fresh cover of slime and a bright, clean aroma (it should never smell fishy),” he says.

“Use your nose and eyes – touch, sniff and, where possible, taste before you buy. Don’t always assume that price is the safest indicator.”

As for oysters, particularly rock oysters, selecting the best can take years of practice, says Allsopp, who chooses only the finest for the country’s most acclaimed restaurants. But says there are some easy clues to keep in mind.

“Maturity - you want something that has had two or three spawn cycles in its lifetime,” he says. “Shell shape - deep cup, convex lid, and maybe some purple colouration on the bottom of the shell. Meat condition and yield - in rock oysters look for a beautiful khaki colour meat with at least 80 per cent of the meat covering the bottom shell.”

Also try to buy unshucked oysters and shuck them yourself, Allsopp says, which will ensure the best flavour.

If they are pre-shucked though, he says it’s important to eat them within hours of being split.

“Oysters are often given a bad rap about going off and making people sick. This is a myth,” Allsopp says. “If an oyster is off, you won’t be able to get it into your mouth, the smell will be unbearable and invasive.”

Also always ask your fishmonger where the oyster came from and check the seasonality of that area on the Appellation Oysters website as all estuaries have peak conditions that vary throughout the year.

“A wonderful attribute of the rock oyster is that once it comes out of the water and is kept at the right temperature (between 12-15C) it will improve its meat condition (and flavour). The oyster gets better out of the water,” Allsopp says.

“For myself, when picking an oyster to eat, I look for the one that has been out of the water the longest.”

Seafood Linguine with prawns, calamari and mussels. Picture: AAP

TOP PICKS

While the festive season boasts a bounty of ocean fare, Susman and Huckstep list unshucked rock oysters, mussels, unsliced smoked trout, caviar, frozen wild prawns and whole fish as their best buys.

ROCK OYSTERS

“Rock oysters are in great condition at Christmas time and can be purchased a good week in advance and stored live and unshucked in the laundry at 12-15C out of harm’s way,” Susman says.

Huckstep says the quality of these oysters means they are often best eaten natural, however there are a few twists if that’s not to your tastes.

“Roasting them whole in the shell (lid on) makes for a wonderful creamy, salty, sweet mouthful,” Huckstep says. “The oyster is ready when the lid naturally starts to pop open. Serve with grated horseradish on top and buttered brown bread on the side.

“If eating raw, a touch of lemon and vinegar helps soften the saltiness and enhance the natural sweetness or a simple mignonette (shallot, red wine vinegar, black pepper).”

MUSSELS

“Mussels are an absolute bargain,” Susman says. “Local blue mussels are really easy to prepare, delicious and make a great addition to the Christmas table simply cooked with white wine, cream and parsley.”

Huckstep agrees.

“Small, petite and sweet, Australian blue mussels are the ultimate fast food and offer so many quick, highly nutritious and enjoyable solutions at Christmas,” he says.

“If buying the vacuum-packed live mussels, simply cook them in a pot in the natural juices they come with and an array of herbs, spring onions and butter to finish. You can add a splash of white wine, but not too much as you don’t want to overpower the subtle joy of the mussels. Once the shells pop they’re ready.

“Or you can take the meat out and use in a summer seafood salad with radishes, fennel and witflof for contrast against the sweet flesh.”

A good relationship with your fishmonger is a key to great seafood.

SIDE OF UNSLICED SMOKED TROUT

“Do your homework and find a really good smoker who will sell you a side of unsliced cold smoked rainbow trout,” Susman says. “Freshly slicing a side of cold smoked trout delivers slices which are moist, yet firm with a texture that is unmatched.”

Huckstep says smoked trout is an unsung hero in the seafood category and offers wonderful culinary opportunities and takes away all the hassle of cooking the fish.

“You can slice it thick or thin, serve it simply with a horseradish cream, salsa verde or a lemon and herb creme fraiche, or hero it in a caper-strong potato salad.”

CAVIAR

“It’s Christmas so live it up,” encourages Susman. “Whether you choose some of the excellent Australian salmon caviar - I think the Yarra Valley Salmon caviar is the world’s best - or one of the many brands of imported sturgeon caviar, of which there has been an explosion in availability in the past few years, caviar is to champagne what raspberries are to cream,” Susman says.

Huckstep says a roe revolution has led to all manner of roe and caviar being available and says you can get a little bit of luxe for a small outlay if done right.

“Whether salmon roe, sea urchin roe, trout roe, scampi or fancy sturgeon, I like to serve it with blinis (mini pancakes) and creme fraiche, or if buying sea urchin roe, simply serve on fingers of white bread - they’re not called the butter of the sea for nothing,” he says. “When it comes to caviar, you only need a little dollop of on top to really get the party started.”

Barbecued prawns with salsa verde.

FROZEN WILD PRAWNS

“Avoid the crush of buying ‘fresh’ prawns on Christmas Eve and buy a 3kg box of frozen prawns the week before Christmas and thaw Christmas morning, dipping them in a salty ice brine to freshen before serving,” Susman recommends. “Although there are excellent fresh farmed Australian tiger prawns available at Christmas, the result will be as good and your sanity retained by avoiding the manic crowds.”

Huckstep is also a fan of frozen wild prawns and says you won’t be compromising on quality.

“These days they’re capturing the integrity and quality of the prawns by freezing them in the boat only minutes after harvest, that means you can enjoy them when you’re ready to,” he says.

“Once defrosted, I love splitting/butterflying prawns, lathering the meat with butter and cooking them shell side down on the barbecue. This protects the meat and keeps all the yummy juices with the prawn too. I’m also a bit old fashioned, and it’s just not Christmas without some sort of spin on a prawn cocktail, or at the very least served with a Mary rose sauce with a bit of chilli for kick.

“So either grab a handful of poached, cold prawns or buy raw banana prawns and cook them using the standard rule for cooking selfish - for every 2L of water add 160g of salt. The salt water helps them retain their natural flavour.”

Cook the prawns in small batches and when they rise to the top they’re cooked. Chill and serve.

Whole fish tastes great and looks good on the table.

Guests can serve whole fish themselves.

WHOLE FISH

“Forget the overcooked, oversized gobbling turkey, and get the whole group’s gobs around a whole fish instead,” Huckstep says.

“It’s quick to cook, easy to serve - let people serve themselves - and can feed the whole family and keep the meal light reducing the load on your food coma in the midafternoon.

Susman says whole snapper, kingfish, salmon or barramundi are all great choices, which Huckstep says are simple to cook.

“For a whole snapper I like them steamed - so you can salt-crust them so they steam inside the salt shell, or in a foil and baking paper parcel with soy, ginger, shallots and wine,” Huckstep says. “Kingfish works well roasted and it’s savoury, sweet flesh works well with flavours of the Mediterranean like an escabeche sauce.

“Salmon love to be roasted whole allowing the skin to crisp up and the fat rendering inside - just peel back the skin and serve with salsa verde and potato salad; while Barramundi are at their best steamed or fried and served with tomato and chilli, or fresh peas and sour cream.”

Susman suggests having your fishmonger scale, gill and gut the fish without using water, before you take it home, wrap in baking paper and store at the bottom of the fridge.

BUDGET BUYS

Susman says all of the above can be great value if bought slightly ahead of time, but also recommends clams as a great value alternative to oysters.

“Farmed and imported prawns will be keener priced than wild Australian, although you could also try school prawns dusted in flour and deep fried,” he says.

“Another great value option is sardine fillets, which are terrific crumbed and shallow fried as a great starter or snack that can be served hot or cold.”

Alternatively try salmon wings and fins (the pectoral and pelvic fins) which can be barbecued, fried or roasted.

“Importantly, don’t rule out the major supermarkets or imported seafood,” Susman says.

“We are a 75 per cent net importer in Australia and thus there are many lower cost producing countries that supply good quality, safe and sustainable seafood.”

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Prawns with zingy jalapeno avocado dip. Picture: Al Richardson

PRAWNS WITH ZINGY JALAPEÑO AVOCADO DIP

SERVES 8 - PREP 15 MINS

INGREDIENTS

2 fresh jalapeño chillies

1 avocado, coarsely chopped

65g (1/4 cup) sour cream

1 lime, rind finely grated, juiced

1/2 cup fresh continental parsley leaves

1/2 cup fresh mint leaves

1/2 cup fresh coriander leaves

1 garlic clove, crushed

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon ground coriander

60ml (1/4 cup) extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon water

1 small red onion, finely chopped

2kg cooked large prawns

Baby herbs, to serve (optional)

Edible flowers, to serve (optional)

METHOD

Step 1

Deseed and finely chop 1 jalapeño. Set aside. Coarsely chop remaining jalapeño and place in a blender with the avocado, sour cream, lime rind, 1 1⁄2 tablespoons juice, parsley, mint, coriander, garlic, ground cumin and ground coriander. Season well.

Step 2

With motor running, add oil and water in a slow, steady stream until smooth and well combined, scraping side of blender once. Transfer to a serving bowl. Add 2 tablespoons red onion and most of the reserved jalapeño. Stir to combine. Sprinkle with remaining onion and jalapeño.

Step 3

Place the prawns on a serving platter. Scatter with the baby herbs and edible flowers, if using. Serve with the dip.