Henry’s in Fitzroy serves vegan burgers that are better than beef
Plant-based meat is becoming big business and new Brunswick St burger joint Henry’s is serving up beef-free burgers that are as good as the real thing.
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The numbers are pretty meaty.
In 2018-19, Aussies spent $150 million on plant-based “meat” products, but according to food innovation think tank Food Frontier, that same industry could contribute up to $3 billion to the Australian economy by 2030.
That’s a lot of pea protein.
But, interestingly, most of that growth won’t come from hardcore animal activists — even though veganism is a growing dietary trend, Aussies are still some of the biggest meat eaters on the planet – but from flexitarians.
More than a third of Australians have consciously reduced their meat consumption, and such brands as Impossible Burger and Beyond Burger with their headline ability to “bleed” like mince have the plant curious in their sights.
The best way to dip your toe into this brave new world of alternative meat is arguably with a nugget — let’s face it, they’re hardly real meat at the best of times – and the nugs at Fitzroy’s new vegan fast food joint Henry’s are terrific.
Delivering crunch, salt and spice in two-bite form, they’re surprisingly and satisfyingly textural, the dusting of barbecue seasoning adding a touch of heat that tag teams with a sharp ranch sauce that’s on dunking duties ($6 for four pieces/$10 for eight).
Taking over a prime two-level site on Brunswick St and filling it with booths, plants and ethical eating, Henry’s is an evolution of the vegan burger journey of founder Maz Salt that saw East Brunswick’s B.East getting the PETA tick of approval years ago.
Here the menu is 100 per cent plant based with the patty of choice from UK brand Moving Mountains, which is also now stocked in Woolworths.
Made from oyster mushrooms, pea, wheat and soy proteins, oats and coconut oil, the patty in the Henry’s Original ($14) mimics the texture and chew of a beef patty almost faultlessly.
The caramelised crust gets another big tick, and while the addition of beetroot makes the “meat” almost cartoon red, it’s still so beef-like I’d imagine true vegans would find it too much — though it’s the win for the rest of us.
Pickles, lettuce and cheese join the patty on a good toasted bun, the “special sauce” a faithful re-creation of the Macca’s original. It’s a very good burger, the only real giveaway that it’s not meat is the underlying sweetness that comes from the coconut oil.
The Schnitzroy ($14) — made with a southern fried pretenderloin — is also completely satisfying, the spiced, crunchy-fried “chicken” joined with an excellent barbecue sauce, lettuce and cheese.
Vegan purists may prefer the more traditional lentil and sweet potato patty teamed with white barbecue sauce in the Lentilist ($12), while good fries come as is ($4.50) or loaded with shredded vcheddar and gravy ($9).
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Softies are equally mindful — Karma Kola ($4) to passionfruit kombucha ($6) and housemade lemonade ($5) — while booze is Fitzroy cool and includes prebottled negronis ($18) from The Everleigh, a pet nat by glass or bottle ($11/65) and light, smashable farmhouse ale from Reservoir’s Future Mountain on tap ($9).
Fast food is the perfect introduction into meat-free eating and the burgers here are the best of this new-wave of plant-based meats I’ve tried.
Henry’s is an insight into the future of fast food and it looks and feels good. Most importantly, it tastes good, too.
HENRY’S
275 Brunswick St, Fitzroy
Ph: 9417 7678
Open: Daily from 11am
Go-to dish: Henry’s Original