Fook Shing in Kyneton serving southeast Asian fare that’s lick-the-bowl good
A reborn country pub in Kyneton has struck gold after throwing out the parmas in favour of the most delicious southeast Asian fare that’s worth making tracks for.
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“Send Fook Shing!”
In Gold Rush-era Melbourne, this was a common cry heard from across the desk of the Victoria Police Chief Commissioner.
Fook Shing was the force’s go-to undercover cop for matters pertaining the burgeoning Chinese population in central Victoria’s goldfields who otherwise befuddled the mainly Irish police force.
But when the gold dried up and the Chinese population migrated to Melbourne so, too, did Fook Shing, who became Melbourne’s Chinese detective for two decades.
A gambler and opium user who died at the turn of the century (and is buried in Melbourne Cemetery) Fook Shing played a vital role in bridging the state, the white settlers and the first generations of Chinese to call Australia home.
What’s a trip to the country without learning a little bit of history?
Kyneton’s Piper St Hotel (known locally as the “bottom pub”) has been many things over its life – it was originally a temperance hotel offering accommodation but no grog; more recently renowned for the fisticuffs that came with the frothies – but for the past few years has lain empty.
Hospo lifers Justin and Martine Forrester have taken it over, given the pub a spruce, a new name, new likeness and new life.
And they’ve struck gold.
This Sunday lunch the large space is packed.
Since opening at the end of August word has spread quicker than dysentery on the diggings that this modern pub and its South-East Asian fare is worth making tracks for.
There’s an expansive deck for when the sun is shining and roaring fires inside for when it’s not.
A “ladies lounge” comes complete with tropical wallpaper and plush seating, while a rickshaw outside, a few lanterns, fans, palms and subtle chinoisserie telegraph the theme with style.
It’s immediately comfortable – the large red leather chairs that surround most tables especially so – and while it can get loud when in full flight, that’s mainly thanks to everyone having a roaring good time gnawing on five-spice quail and scoffing duck san choy bau and passing plates of pad Thai and Hainanese chicken around.
John McLeay (ex Red Spice Road) was originally slated for the kitchen but it’s Danielle Rensonnet (ex Bellota) who is turning out that approachable menu of SE Asian hits that favours sour and sweet rather than chilli heat in a nod, perhaps, to local tastes.
That said, pickled red chilli atop the terrific quail – crunchy and tender and fragrantly spicy in every good way – adds a clever touch of bright heat ($18).
It’s rather more punch than you’ll find in the “chilli fried squid”, though no faulting the tenderness of the curled tiles that are teamed with a bright Chinese cabbage salad ($18).
Heat seekers should instead double down on the gingery prawn and chicken dumplings that come with a Sichuan dipping sauce that’s properly knock-your-socks-off fiery ($14).
More subtle pleasures are found in a bowl of wonderfully wobbly warm egg custard that’s generously topped with sweet crabmeat and a salty XO sauce ($14). It’s as lick-the-bowl-good as the wine list is to drink in.
While the impressive number of wines by the glass aren’t poured at the table (sigh), Justin and Martine’s three decades’ experience – stretching back to De Oliveira’s, Mecca Bah and Bistrot Balzac – otherwise shines brightly in what’s already a highly polished offering.
Martine keeps the full restaurant humming with ease and Justin tends the bar and terrific list of food-spice friendly wines at super keen prices that keeps a clear-eye on trends without being enslaved by them.
Beer is equally on pointe, with $10 pints of Carlton offered alongside Singapore’s Tiger and Belgium’s Hoegaarden and their own mid-strength Fook Bier that’s a good summer smasher. A nice line in on-theme cocktails includes the house take on a Singapore sling ($19) and a $15 blood orange “ranga spritz”.
Drinks hit the table with speed and the kitchen keeps pace this busy lunch which means it isn’t long before a whole snapper, floured, fried and topped with a hot-sweet-tart sauce of tamarind, chilli, coriander toots and fish sauce lands ($38).
A plate of steamed greens ($9) served with a pond of funky fermented red bean paste adds interest alongside the perfectly cooked fish, though the peanut-heavy crisp pork belly salad ($19) and the coconut creamy pork curry with bitter pea eggplants, young peppercorns and salted duck egg are both equally well done ($32).
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More coconut – this time in sweetened cream form – with a retro classic banana fritter ($9), finishes an easily enjoyable meal.
It’s food you want to eat again, with booze you want to drink, at prices that don’t cause you to stop and think.
Kyneton’s struck gold with this reborn pub.