New Abbotsford cafe AU79 great bang for your buck with everything $20 or less
THE Abbotsford cafe scene has a new golden child in AU79, overhauled from a mechanics garage into a beautiful cafe with serious bang for your buck.
Weekend
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Melbourne’s cafe scene has a new golden child. It’s big and bold, overhauling a grungy mechanics garage in Abbotsford into a beautiful cafe and function space with a whopping 200 seats.
Its name is AU79. If your high-school science is a little rusty, AU79 is the periodic table’s symbol and atomic number for gold.
And that’s what the owners have gone for at this site, which also houses a coffee roaster, bakery, and patisserie run by former Rustica head baker Isaac Kane.
It’s also a greenhouse of sorts, bursting with lush plants — the mounted staghorn ferns are pretty impressive.
Opened in April, AU79 is owned by the CCC Group, which also has cafes Addict Food & Coffee, Sir Charles, Liar Liar and Prospect Espresso.
FOOD
Alongside more classic dishes — smashed avo, a big breakfast and bircher — come some indulgent standouts such as a cronut with house-made coconut yoghurt, rhubarb granita, peach and black sesame praline. Or the Belgian waffle balls with passionfruit cream, fresh pineapple and banana compote.
Alas, the lunch menu takes our eye. The lamb croquettes ($20) won’t win any beauty contests but are delightfully good eating.
Shredded 24-hour braised lamb is encased in a thick shell of crumbs, and sat atop an earthy carrot and orange puree, with roasted vegies and charred onions. A rich jus sits alongside for pouring, bringing together all the elements like a big group hug.
The salmon ($20) was artfully plated, a just-opaque, crispy-skinned piece of fish on a mound of freekeh and puffed grains, all dotted with pickled beets and sea succulents. Daubs of a punchy dill emulsion add colour and pizzazz.
Don’t leave without a sweet treat baked in-house. Eclairs are a speciality.
DRINK
A self-contained coffee roastery prepares the cafe’s own 24K blend, along with single-origin brews from around the world.
There’s also Mork hot chocolate, Heal’r turmeric lattes and a wide range of teas. As for cold drinks, get fresh and cold-press juices, sodas, milkshakes and four inviting smoothies.
A liquor licence is planned, particularly for any future dinner service.
SERVICE
On this cruisy weekday, service is easygoing yet attentive.
X FACTOR
The owners won’t give a figure on how much the reno cost, but you can tell it’s a packet. It’s a vast space, but it has been cleverly zoned and given a bright conservatory feel with greenery, high ceilings, pastel tones and fab seating options.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
Value for money is one of this cafe’s fortes, with everything $20 or less, including hearty, restaurant-style lunches.
V ERDICT
You go to Richmond and Abbotsford for great Vietnamese food, now strike it rich at brunch, too. Gold stars all round.
AU79
27-29 Nicholson St, Abbotsford
FOOD
Mod cafe
HOURS
Mon-Fri 7am-4pm, Sat-Sun 8am-4pm
EXECUTIVE CHEF
Stephen Hogan
BOOKINGS
Yes
TIME BETWEEN ORDERING AND EATING
12 minutes
PERFECT FOR
Dining in a gorgeous setting
DESTINATION DISH
Lamb croquettes
NOISE LEVEL
Pleasant
ONLINE
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CENTRAL
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EAST
Bawa, 248 Burwood Rd, Hawthorn
Destination dish: Slow-braised lamb shoulder