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Sardine
65 Esplanade, Paynesville
(03) 5156 7135
It’s a cliché, but order the sardines at Sardine. Fresh off the trawler from nearby Lakes Entrance, what chef Mark Briggs serves them with depends on the season, but in winter they could be barbecued and topped with a medley of smoked tomato, broad beans and sage, or in summer expect a simple Med vibe with chilli and garlic. Ask for a quick lesson on filleting and you’ll quickly discover these delicate white-fleshed beauties are the highlight of a menu that champions Victoria’s best seafood in a quintessential East Gippsland setting.
That local seafood might also include finely-diced duckfish tartare with shiso ponzu and edamame in a crunchy wonton crisp; fried school prawns with jalapeño aioli; and an impressive jumble of roasted snapper fillets with surf clams and “beach herbs” (think crunchy, salty succulents). But it’s not all ‘surf’ at Sardine; Briggs’ ‘turf’ offerings may include fall-apart blocks of lamb shoulder from nearby Munro, while broccoli from Lindenow is fried in tempura batter and doused in grated parmesan.
Consider the broccoli a worthy challenger for the restaurant’s signature dish and one of the best, and best value, sides you’ll eat this year.
Sardine’s stylish decor and comfy seats wouldn’t be out of place in bayside Melbourne, yet this 50-seater is actually the perfect reflection of the much more laid back Paynesville. To finish, gaze across the Gippsland Lakes to Raymond Island while tucking into a log of honey parfait made with honey from the said island.
Must order dish: Lakes Entrance sardines with smoked tomato
Cuisine: Contemporary seafood
Chef: Mark Briggs
Price: $$
Open: lunch and dinner Tue-Sun (closed Mon)
Instagram: @sardineeaterybar