O.MY
The brothers Bertoncello have moved next door into stylish new digs in Beaconsfield’s old Post Office for their acclaimed farm-to-fork fare
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O.MY
19-21 Woods St, Beaconsfield
(03) 9769 9000
The brothers Bertoncello – who introduced ‘degustation’ to the vocabulary of Melbourne’s outer east six-odd years ago – have moved next door into stylish new digs in Beaconsfield’s old Post Office for their acclaimed farm-to-fork fare.
With the daily changing menu dictated by what’s grown in their 1.6-ha farm down the road, making the most of seasonal bounty and preserving the rest is a keen focus.
As is whole-beast butchery that’s literally namechecked – Norman the Hereford providing the beef fat that’s whipped into butter to spread across cracking-crusted sourdough, as well as the brisket that’s draped across a richly cosseting ragu.
Across the eight or so courses, meat is otherwise used sparingly, usually to simply season a heroed vegetable.
A snack-sized piece of venison, threaded with zucchini on a skewer; a kimchi-spiked pork broth to dress “no waste” pumpkin tortelloni; carrots poached in chicken stock and finished with a chicken skin crumble. All show a respect for animal protein that’s both bang-on-trend and a vision of dining’s future.
While Blayne calmly directs the quietly effective open kitchen from the restaurant-side of the pass, Chayse looks after the dining room with infectious, unaffected enthusiasm, keen to show off his carefully curated cellar, which is filled with eclectic, interesting drinking.
O.MY is as terrifically enjoyable as it is terrific value, the larger dining room and new wine bar losing none of the country charm of the restaurant of old, yet gaining a newfound maturity and clarity of purpose. For a celebration of produce, it’s one of our best.
Must eat dish: All the snacks
Cuisine: Contemporary
Chef: Blayne Bertoncello
Price: $$$$
Bookings: Yes
Open: Lunch Sat-Sun from 12pm; Dinner Thurs-Fri from 6pm, Sat-Sun from 6.30pm
Instagram: @omyrestaurant