No green eggs but plenty of Spam at Hawthorn East cafe Mr & Mrs Anderson
MOVE over lobster doughnut burger, there’s a new novelty dish in town. This Hawthorn East cafe’s carb-loaded dish is rectangular fun on a bun.
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CHEF Emma Jeffrey knows how to keep the brunch bunch on their toes.
Cafe-goers crossed town in 2015 for her lobster doughnut burger at Mammoth, which not only put the Armadale cafe on the map but made it almost council ordinance that new eateries debut with a novelty signature dish.
After a brief stint at South Yarra brassiere Gilson (owned by the same couple behind Mammoth) and time at her other gig as co-owner and executive chef of The Moat cafe and bar in the city, Jeffrey has popped up at Mr & Mrs Anderson in a leafy residential section of Hawthorn East.
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Owners James Limneous and Roulla Saisanas are the duo here, with Anderson the name of the side street where the 65-seater resides. The business partners opened shop in 2016, but enlisted Jeffrey in February after founding chef Lasse “GD” Povlsen moved on to other projects.
Jeffrey has overhauled the menu with another round of attention-grabbing dishes, while still capitalising on produce from the owners’ Gippsland farm.
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FOOD
Carb loaders will love the Spam burger ($23), a thick rectangular meat patty in a round brioche bun layered with interest in the form of oozy jack cheese, lashings of mustard and smoky whiskey-soaked pickles.
The plate also comes with a dob of sweet pineapple ketchup and waffles spotty with salt and pepper for an intriguing new way to have fun with a bun.
Even everyone’s favourite, pancakes, aren’t safe here — in a completely good way. Jeffrey’s Japanese souffle pancakes ($19, pictured) are light, delicate and eat more savoury than saccharine. They sit below a ring of pineapple, its top torched to a tropical toffee and served with a passionfruit gelato and a subtle coconut jam.
It’s a dish that’s memorable long after you’ve devoured it, and the perfect sweet breakfast for those who don’t usually gravitate to sweet breakfasts. And points for a non-boring “add ons” menu featuring Yorkshire pudding with hollandaise ($5), popcorn chicken ($5) and bacon steak ($6).
DRINK
Armadale coffee roaster Bean Cartel keeps things caffeinated and local. Orange juice is a fresh squeeze, and there are several shakes, though avoid the meh strawberry and elderflower concoction.
SERVICE
Easygoing and attentive staffers keep things ticking along.
X FACTOR
This cosy cafe is below a newish corner apartment block with city views and a pleasant outlook to a sprawling school oval.
Outside tables are under striking striped brollies. Inside, wood and white tiling give clean lines, offset with beautiful Moroccan-tiled feature walls.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
On-par pricing for quality, well-executed dishes and also in this well-heeled area.
VERDICT
Mr & Mrs Anderson raises the bar for the ’burbs with a brunch less ordinary, where quirky twists and clever takes will change the colour of your day.
MR & MRS ANDERSON
398 Tooronga Rd, Hawthorn East, 9882 9888
FOOD Mod cafe
HOURS Mon-Fri. 7am-4pm, Sat-Sun 8am-4pm
HEAD CHEF Emma Jeffrey
TIME BETWEEN ORDERING AND EATING 18 minutes
PERFECT FOR Locals and Emma Jeffrey fans
DESTINATION DISH Japanese souffle pancake
NOISE LEVEL Clamorous when busy
ONLINE mrandmrsanderson.com.au
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