New Chinese cafe Naxi Folk channels the chilli charms of Yunnan cuisine

THERE’S no need to pack a suitcase if you want a taste of Yunnan’s exotic cuisine. Just head down to Hawthorn and call into Naxi Folk, with the ‘morning bao’ not to be missed.

Simon Plant

2 min read

August 10, 2018 - 3:00PM

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TIME to get out the atlas and find Yunnan.

This fabled province in China’s southwest — bounded by Vietnam, Laos, Tibet and Myanmar — has mountains so high and rivers so deep, it has always been regarded as a world unto itself. A real-life Shangri-La.

Happily, there’s no need to pack a suitcase if you want a taste of Yunnan’s exotic cuisine. Just head down to Hawthorn and call into Naxi Folk.

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This newly minted cafe on Glenferrie Rd takes its name from an ethnic Chinese group descended from nomads.

And breakfast is the way to go if you want to sample Yunnan’s gently spicy charms.

Naxi Folk in Hawthorn. Picture: Sarah Matray

FOOD

Start, as we did, with breakfast noodles ($12.50). Flat rice noodles, to be exact.

At Naxi Folk, they are cooked in a light broth, then coiled into the well of a ceramic dish and layered with beef brisket, leafy greens and a tea egg — a semi-cooked egg that’s been slightly cracked, then finished to a soft-boil in tea, sauces and spice.

“This is how Yunnanese have their breakfast,” proprietor Clare Hu says.

But it’s not the only way.

Son-in-Law Eggs ($14.50) are as Yunnan as a prayer wheel and just as beloved. Traditionally, the dish comprises two soft-boiled, deep-fried eggs. At Naxi, the bronzed googies are set on a slipper of (over-crisped) cornbread with pickled raw mushrooms, sesame crackers and kaffir-lime chilli jam. Too many ingredients for my liking, but I’m guessing this dish cures hangovers.

Naxi Folk’s Son-in-Law Eggs. Picture: Sarah Matray

Best in show is without doubt the Morning Bao ($14). Naxi’s take on an egg and bacon roll lodges a fluffy omelet and thick-cut bacon in a springy bao bun, then bolsters that with soy sauce, homemade mayo and fresh cucumber.

Still hungry? It’s Naxi’s pan-fried roti wrap ($11.50) for you. Or Eight Treasures porridge ($11). Or a fresh-baked muffin sitting perkily in its patty-pan.

Naxi Folk’s Morning Bao. Picture: Sarah Matray

DRINK

Naxi Folk’s juices are a great wake-up call, especially the Chilli Out ($7), which jangles watermelon, lime and a pinch of the hot stuff.

There are smoothies, too — anyone for sweet kiwi, blueberries, honey, milk and yoghurt? — and all sorts of coffee. But since tea is such a central part of Yunnan culture, it should be your beverage of choice here. We favour the pu’er ($4), a mellow, large leaf variety very specific to this far-flung province.

Naxi Folk’s Cameo of Chilli Out juice in tall glass with watermelon. Picture: Sarah Matray

SERVICE

Members of the smiling floor team know all about the dishes they’re serving but firmer connections are needed between front of house and the kitchen.

X FACTOR

Naxi Folk has given this shop a mod makeover. Walls are upholstered with bamboo matting, banquettes are nicely patterned in pink, and golden lanterns lend a warm glow on wintry mornings.

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

In a crowded cafe market, Naxi Folk stands out with prices below the average. Expect to pay no more than $15 for a cooked brekky here.

VERDICT

Start the day at Naxi Folk and you may want to stay on for lunch. As Hu says, “Turn up. Sit down. Eat.”

simon.plant@news.com.au