Navi
Navi might have given the inner west its first taste of fine dining but, with his brilliant brik pastry, Julian Hills is also giving Melbourne its first taste of posh possum.
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83B Gamon St, Yarraville
(03) 9939 9774
With its quiet backstreet location, ghostly gauze curtains and spotlit tables, the fridge full of craft beers, cellar of low-intervention local wines and months-long wait for a table, Navi might have given the inner west its first taste of fine dining but, with his brilliant brik pastry, Julian Hills is also giving Melbourne its first taste of posh possum.
Wrapped in wafer-thin pastry, the pest is turned into the best crisp-fried parcel, a native ragu of riberries, quandong and more delivering fruity foil to the sweet, slightly gamy meat.
It’s just one act in the chef/owner’s year-old celebration of contemporary Australia, across eight courses on artful ceramics made by Hills himself.
You might also find an equally stunning dish of octopus served with bunya cream and bright cape gooseberries, wallaby wrapped in chewy yolk, or smoked apple with wattleseed ice cream.
For such precise, enjoyable contemporary cooking that doesn’t forget to be fun – see the ultimate dinner party soundtrack that gives airtime to Led Zep, Stevie Wonder and Outcast in equal measure – Navi delivers unbeatable big night out bang for buck.
Must eat dish: Possum brik with native fruit ragu
Cuisine: Contemporary
Chef: Julian Hills
Price: $$$$
Bookings: Yes
Open: Lunch Sat 2-5pm; Dinner Wed-Sat 6-11pm
Instagram: @restaurantnavi