Albert Park Japanese restaurant Brother Shota wins fans

GO for the slurp-tastic noodle soup, stay for the slow-cooked beef ribs— this Asian-inspired eatery is putting a new spin on some old favourites and winning fans.

Brother Shota in Albert Park. Picture: Rob Leeson

I HAVE a confession: noodle soups and I have never really got on.

The whole ramen thing has always escaped me — I know, I know, it’s a blind spot — but thanks to Brother Shota, I think I may have seen the light.

The Tan Tan Ramen ($18) at this mod Asian eatery in Albert Park is supremely slurpable.

Maybe not what I sampled in Tokyo, standing at a ramen kiosk, but chef Han Kim’s foggy, sesame flavoured broth of ground pork and mustard leaf greenery was just what I needed on a bitter winter’s night.

In a way, Kim’s ramen typifies Shota’s mission by the bay: to toy with tradition, to put a new spin on old favourites, but never lose sight of the essentials.

Brother Shota’s Tan Tan Ramen soup. Picture: Rob Leeson.

FOOD

What a menu ... izakaya snacks and tempura tastes, rice bowls and bento boxes, sushi, sashimi and sharing plates.

How you navigate Brother Shota depends on the occasion. If you’re paying a quick lunchtime visit, go the gyoza dumplings: pork ($11) comes with a tangy ponzu sauce, lamb ($13) with soy vinegar and chilli oil. Nicely pleated, these steamed half moons hold their shape even when squeezed with chopsticks.

Kim’s Japanese pancake ($6) is another option — presented as a flamboyant kebab — but tempura steals the show. Especially the deep-fried eggplant, which come stacked and sticky with a miso and apple glaze ($13).

Staying on? Then you have to try the sushi. Kim, who hails from South Korea, bends towards new wave concoctions. So while purists are bound to resist Shota’s eight-piece Rock ’n’ Roll selection ($19), I loved this conga-line of technicolour bright tuna, avocado, cucumber, salmon, and flying fish roe. There are always “specials” — breadcrumbed oysters perhaps or a fragrant kingfish katsu curry — and most of the dishes here can be made gluten free on request.

Brother Shota in Albert Park. Picture: Rob Leeson.

But no visit to Brother Shota is complete without sinking your teeth into the beef ribs ($29.50). Kim marinates his meat (prime angus beef), then cooks it sweet and slow for more than 20 hours. Given a blast of charcoal heat before serving, and sliced thickly, our ribs were blissfully pink and smoky.

Desserts are a bit of an afterthought, but a passionfruit panna cotta ($10) had cool appeal.

DRINK

Japanese beer (Kirin Ichiban, Yebisu Premium Malt) is just made for Brother Shota’s food. So is sake. There’s a concise list here, from cool and semi-dry to warm and mellow. Cocktails, too. Anyone for a Yuzu Whisky Smash ($18)?

 

SERVICE

Gently welcoming. Dishes came and went without us even knowing.

X FACTOR

Shota’s naked white walls are warmed by caramel tones. A timber-backed banquette runs the length of the room but there’s comfortable seating upfront.

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

Order a lot and your bill can grow rapidly but portions err on the generous side.

VERDICT

Bright, comfortable and well managed, Brother Shota is a welcome addition to a neighbourhood already well served by Asian-inspired eateries. And the ramen really is good.

Brother Shota’s beef ribs. Picture: Rob Leeson

[e-mail]

  

BROTHER SHOTA

125 Victoria Ave, Albert Park. Ph: 8596 8172

FOOD

Modern Japanese

HOURS

Lunch Thu-Mon, dinner Wed-Mon, closed Tue

CHEF

Han Kim

BOOKINGS

Yes

TIME BETWEEN ORDERING AND EATING

Five minutes

PERFECT FOR

Sushi grazing, late-night dining

DESTINATION DISH

Shota No Beef Rib

NOISE LEVEL

Chatty

Inside the white walls of Brother Shota, Albert Park. Picture: Rob Leeson.

IF YOU LIKED THIS, YOU’LL LIKE THESE

WEST

AJITOYA

82 Charles St, Seddon

Destination dish: Teriyaki salmon

 

EAST

OCHA

3 Church St, Hawthorn

Destination dish: Tiger prawn kataifi

 

SOUTH

DASHI

18 Ranelagh Drive, Mount Eliza

Destination dish: Snapper in kombu dashi broth