Lorna cafe in Ferntree Gully is a perfect brunch stop after exercising in the Dandenong Ranges

IT takes 1000 steps to complete the Kokoda Track Memorial Walk in the Dandenong Ranges. But Lorna cafe is just a hop, skip and a jump away. No wonder it has become a popular pit stop for people tackling the track.

SIMON PLANT

2 min read

February 2, 2018 - 3:00PM

Lorna Cafe at 1053 Burwood Hwy in Ferntree Gully. Picture: Eugene Hyland

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IT takes 1000 steps to complete the Kokoda Track Memorial Walk in the Dandenong Ranges. But the steep 3km hike is an easy trek from Lorna in Ferntree Gully. No wonder this newish cafe has become a popular pit stop for people tackling the track.

Lorna, now in its sixth month, gets a lot of fit-looking folk through the door. And these sneaker-shod brunch hunters are not just fuelling up on some of the best smoothies in town. Lorna — managed by partners Josh O’Brien and Omar Viramontes — is also meeting an appetite for appealing, healthy fare not often seen in this neck of the woods.

Lorna’s health bowl with coconut kale quinoa and a poached egg. Picture: Eugene Hyland

FOOD

Lorna is named after O’Brien’s grandmother and the homemade crumpets ($8) he serves here — lathered with Olde Spikey Bridge peanut butter from Tassie — are a nod to nanna nostalgia.

Not so the health bowl ($17). This gluten-free, vegan-friendly tummy filler is defiantly here and now, from its rising tiers of coconut kale, quinoa and pickled cauliflower to its layers of nori, nuts, broccoli and tofu. It has wellness written all over it.

Lorna’s owners Omar Viramontes and Josh O'Brien. Picture: Eugene Hyland

Viramontes’ Mexican ancestry shines through in turmeric scrambled eggs ($18), a sunny start to the day with its dice of chorizo, Spanish onion, potatoes and banana peppers.

But the Lorna team hasn’t put all its (Kinross Farm free-range) eggs in one basket.

A fried egg floats over the chilaquiles ($17.50) — a stack of nachos sticky with jack cheese, black beans and a tomatillo salsa — while a poached googie is recommended with the Southern fried chicken ($19.50, pictured).

Gee, this is good: three plump pieces of chook, cooked sous vide to soften ’em up, then drenched in corn flake batter and brought to perfect crunching crispness in the fryer. You get savoury waffles on the side, batons of pickled celery and jalapeños.

Lorna Cafe at 1053 Burwood Hwy in Ferntree Gully. Southern Fried Chicken and waffles. Picture: Eugene Hyland

Is a beef-brisket burger ($18.50) too much for brunch? Then consider a taco. Lorna serves two for $14, shredded brisket spooned into one soft tortilla, and beans, corn, lettuce and chilli sauce into the other.

For a sweet finish, order a beetroot brownie ($4), which is more fudge than cake.

DRINK

Lorna’s smoothie, In Fruit We Trust ($9), is morning glory in a glass: an invigorating blend of cold-pressed apple juice, blueberry, avocado, kiwifruit and lime. But there’s so much else to quench your thirst here, from organic Mayde tea and brewed prana chai to kombucha and sugar-free lemonade. We especially like the cold-brew coffee in its cocktail glass.

Lorna’s acai bowl with granola, home made yoghurt and Indian gooseberry jelly. Picture: Eugene Hyland

SERVICE

Friendly and attentive. Dishes were properly explained, plates cleared quickly.

X FACTOR

Cool fitout. Lorna is all creams and caramels with pops of colour — canary-yellow cups here, trailing greenery there. Perch at a ledge on low Scandinavian chairs or slide into bench seating, squiggly neon lamps glowing overhead.

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

Generous. Take a fork to any of Lorna’s dishes and you’ll be hard pressed to finish them.

VERDICT

Little Lorna is a big step up for Ferntree Gully’s fledgling cafe scene and if a thousand steps sounds like a thousand too many, skip the walk and pull up a seat here.

simon.plant@news.com.au