Food review: High five for Highett cafe and deli AM:PM

EVERYBODY needs good neighbours — but also a cracking local for day-starting coffees, knock-off wines and great food in between. Case in point is this local gem in Highett.

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EVERYBODY needs good neighbours — or so the song goes. But how about a cracking local for day-starting coffees, cheeky knock-off wines and great food in between?

On the ground floor of a new apartment development, AM:PM has been giving Highett its daily dose of this since late June.

With dinner service to come, it’ll be an even more enticing day-into-night package.

And sweetening the deal is that the owners concurrently opened a gourmet grocer next door. The Deli Co stocks locally made bread, eggs, yoghurt, meat, pasta and muesli from brands such as Dench Bakery and St David Dairy, as well as cheese from the likes of Calendar Cheese Company in its temperature-controlled cool room.

The Deli Co cheese room. Picture: Nicki Connolly

FOOD

Heading the kitchen is Aussie-born chef Jack Stuart who’s most recently worked in the UK, including as sous chef at the Michelin-starred Forest Side Hotel in England’s Lake District.

Here, his dishes strike a perfect balance between homely and cheffy.

The gingerbread hot cake (right, $16) has fast become a signature dish — and for good reason. Atop a subtly spiced fluffy pancake sits grilled apple segments, candied walnuts and jammy prunes soaked in tea, all teamed with vanilla ricotta to scrumptious effect. Not too sweet, every flavour works.

AM:PM’s gingerbread hot cakes. Picture: Nicki Connolly

The spring menu also extends to fennel and speck braised beans ($22) with a fried duck egg and chorizo, and marinated strawberries ($16) with passionfruit, yoghurt, meringue and granola.

Lunch? Wrap your mitts around a wagyu cheeseburger ($18) in a Baked for Sofia brioche bun also housing raclette cheese, house ketchup and pickles. Or go the light and lovely pea soup ($14) with pickled fennel, mint and creme fraiche.

A tapas menu rolls out after 4pm featuring prawn mini rolls, oysters with horseradish, mushroom arancini, and cheese and charcuterie boards made up of produce sold next door at The Deli Co.

DRINK

Reliably good coffee from Dukes kicks the day off right, while tea comes courtesy of Larsen & Thompson.

Smoothies, juices and chai, matcha and turmeric lattes round out the daytime offering.

Wines from a tight and bright list are keenly priced, with bottles around $40.

SERVICE

Engaged, friendly and efficient service from this young team matches the effort being put in behind the pass.

X FACTOR

Cafes at the bottom of new-build apartment blocks are no longer soulless shells. AM:PM is comfortable, warm and modern, sporting some covetable lighting and marble-topped tables.

Of its 50 seats, perch in the window, at well-spaced tables with room for prams, or the giant communal booth.

AM: PM cafe has a lovely interior. Picture: Nicki Connolly

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

Classy, cleverly created and good-sized meals averaging around $20 should get you in the door.

VERDICT

AM:PM and The Deli Co is a well-put-together local combo that deserves a wide following.

AM:PM

481-485 Highett Rd, Highett. Ph: 9192 9935

FOOD Mod cafe and tapas

HOURS Mon-Sat 7am-8pm

CHEF Jack Stuart

BOOKINGS No

TIME BETWEEN ORDERING AND EATING 14 minutes

PERFECT FOR Eclectic but comforting brunches

DESTINATION DISH Gingerbread hot cake

NOISE LEVEL Happy hubbub

ONLINE a-m-p-m.com

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