Hey, hey, hey — Fat Albert cafe lands in Albert Park
DELICIOUS and different, Albert Park’s new addition to the cafe fray hits the mark with its Japanese-influenced menu and pretty pink fit-out for a brunch and lunch less ordinary.
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ANOTHER week, another new cafe. But what sets one apart from the rest? Fat Albert is newly sprung in Albert Park, where Truman cafe once stood.
He’s quite pink, has a front like Myer with expansive outdoor seating and a Japanese bent.
It’s the latest venture from the team behind bright Port Melbourne cafe Punchbowl Canteen, and has chef Ryo Doyama (ex-Walk Don’t Run in Armadale) to thank for its substantial Asian-leaning menu.
There’s rice porridge, mushrooms in miso and a riff on eggs benedict with kaffir lime hollandaise and chilli caramel-glazed pork belly for breakfast, and for lunch, a popular ramen and a chirashi bowl with green tea-poached salmon.
But Asian-style twists aren’t Albert’s only move, with a Tunisian scramble with salsa verde and chorizo, and a beef brisket sandwich with sauerkraut adding to the global appeal.
FOOD
Ravenous? The chicken katsu sando ($20) is a satisfying belly filler.
Soft, fluffy white bread houses thick cuts of free-range chook — juicy, giving and crispy crumbed in panko — with shredded cabbage and “bulldog” Japanese barbecue sauce. Japanese mustard gives it all a robust wasabi-like kick.
With a good chicken-to-bread ratio and a side of Japanese-style potato salad well held with mayo, this is an excellent plate.
Peckish? Go the California Toast ($21), Albert’s adventurous take on avo on toast.
It’s like a California sushi roll had one helluva party, resulting in a tangle of avocado, salmon, sweet crabmeat, sliced radish and nori paste, with pops of tobiko on Cobb Lane bread. A slow-poached egg, drizzled with wasabi oil, crowns the lot.
Perfect with coffee is the banana bread ($12). It comes as a springy mini loaf dusted with icing sugar, its banana goodness bolstered by half a bruleed piece of fruit with raspberry mascarpone and walnut crumbs. Very nice.
There is also a considered kids’ menu, a smart move for this family belt.
DRINK
Industry Beans takes care of the coffee, and there are three freshly squeezed juices ($8), organic teas, and hot sips involving chai, matcha and turmeric. The mango, pineapple and banana smoothie ($9) is a tasty, tropical pick-me-up cut with passionfruit.
SERVICE
Friendly and unobtrusive service from a tight team.
X FACTOR
This corner cafe is cute and charismatic, decked out in dusky pinks with great blue velvet chairs, dangling greenery and a retro vibe.
There are about 70 seats, most outside, which is thankfully warmed with portable heaters. Look for the “Dog Perignon” water station outside for four-legged friends.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
Standard pricing for this upwardly mobile neck of the woods.
VERDICT
Delicious and different, Fat Albert hits the mark for a brunch and lunch less ordinary.
Say hey, hey, hey today.
FAT ALBERT
381 Montague St, Albert Park. Ph: 9699 3344
FOOD Mod cafe with a Japanese influence
HOURS Mon-Sat 7am-4pm, Sun 8am-4pm
CHEF Ryo Doyama
TIME BETWEEN ORDERING AND EATING 18 minutes
PERFECT FOR Something different
DESTINATION DISH Chicken katsu sando
NOISE LEVEL Fine
ONLINE instagram.com/fatalbertcafe
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