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Etta

Lucky Brunswick East. For not every suburb has such a warmly welcoming local.

Roasted skate with silverbeet and chickpeas. Picture: Annika Kafcaloudis
Roasted skate with silverbeet and chickpeas. Picture: Annika Kafcaloudis

60 Lygon St, Brunswick East

9448 8233

ettadining.com.au

Lucky Brunswick East. For not every suburb has such a warmly welcoming local.

And while many do try, not every chef nails the house-baked bread and handmade butter double act.

But at Etta, owner Hannah Green greets newcomers and regulars alike with such easy, welcoming humour, you’ll want to return even before she’s poured the first glass of the elegant house Blanc de Blanc.

And new chef Charley Snadden-Wilson (ex Ramblr) is serving such a knockout version of bread and butter, it ruins almost all others.

His cracking-crusted sourdough doorstop, served oven-warm with a cheesy, peppery “cacio e pepe” to slather across, is the best $4 you can spend on carbs.

Etta. Picture: Annika Kafcaloudis
Etta. Picture: Annika Kafcaloudis

This handsome, two-year-old one-time fish and chip shop has been transformed into the perfect neighbourhood restaurant, where the playlist is as carefully curated as the cellar, so both Sharon Jones and the Dapp Kings and an early-picked Barossa Semillon are equally at home.

Flavour-first plates abound through the short, share-friendly menu.

Stracciatella with charred leeks served under a tumble of brown butter breadcrumbs is as lick-the-plate good as a perfectly treated piece of meaty skate swimming in a butter-finished stock with chard and chickpeas.

Cabbage, sprayed with seaweed water and dusted with kombu, shows both a deft touch on the new charcoal grill and respect for veg, while toasted bread custard served with smoke-tickled quince is a terrific full stop.

Lucky Brunswick East?

More like lucky Melbourne.

Must-eat dish: Stacciatella with charred leeks

Cuisine: Contemporary

Chef: Charley Snadden-Wilson

Bookings: Yes

BYO: Yes $20/bottle

Price: $$

Original URL: https://www.heraldsun.com.au/lifestyle/delicious-100/etta/news-story/9355157a7233d5adba30b572b2b7ddad