Elwood’s Turtle Cafe site in full swing again as cafe A Girl Called Jayne
AFTER 25 years serving Elwood lunch and brunch, the Turtle Cafe site is reborn as A Girl Called Jayne cafe. And it’s signing with influences from around the world.
Weekend
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AFTER Turtle Cafe plied Elwood with lunch and brunch for 25 years (bar downtime after a 2009 fire) on the Glen Huntly and Ormond roundabout, it’s nice to see the site in full swing again.
A Girl Called Jayne opened in October, with the spot’s Art Deco building given a fine refresh and that outdoor area teeming once more with punters, prams and pups.
Owner Anthony Cannan (ex-Glamorama in Fitzroy and South Yarra’s Less than Zero) has brought on Brazil-born Yannick Beaucaine as manager and chef. Beaucaine’s a man of many talents, having worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris, as well as a producer for artists such as Canadian rapper Drake.
His menu sings of the seasons with influences from around the world, such as pico de gallo and dukkah powering smashed avo, and blood sausage and HP hollandaise giving some Brit pop to classic eggs benedict.
FOOD
The Pumpkin & Pumpkin ($17, right) makes a hero of the humble vegie, teaming Japanese pumpkin wedges roasted in garlic and rosemary with a silky hummus of chickpeas, tahini and pumpkin. It’s served with Dench multigrain toast and crunchy soy pepitas, with the soft yolk of the ajitsuke tamago egg (a boiled egg marinated in a ramen base broth) unifying the lot.
Also worthy of your time is the brulee French toast ($16), its buttery, fried challah bread, poached fruit and maple a tempting trio. Or spice up your life with harissa scrambled
eggs ($19), a juicy pile given further chilli hum from a quality merguez sausage.
There are only three lunch options for now, including a chicken katsu burger ($14) with kewpie mayo.
The evening menu changes, but expect good combos to share, such as grilled octopus with chorizo and apple ($13), and fried zucchini flowers with smoked eggplant and goat cheese ($13), plus charcuterie and cheese boards.
DRINK
Two Code Black house blends smooth out the morning, as do cold-pressed juices and bottled organic sodas. Jayne is also licensed for post-beach bevvies, such as strawberry-infused Aperol spritzes, canned and bottled beers, and mainly local wines.
SERVICE
Despite a troupe of waiters, it’s hard to flag one down this sunny Sunday to check if an outdoor table is free or there’s a wait. After some confusion over duties, we’re seated and orders are quickly taken. Coffee lands soon after.
X FACTOR
The addition of soft green and black and brass accents have picked up the beautiful Art Deco detailing of this 1920s building, which is bathed in natural light through expansive leadlight windows. There are 30 seats inside and 44 in the sprawling sun-soaked outdoor area. A further 18 outdoor seats are imminent.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
Heartier appetites may be left wanting, but here it’s quality of produce (organic and local), not quantity.
VERDICT
Occupying a beloved bayside address, Jayne has all the ingredients to become a fave local hangout.
A GIRL CALLED JAYNE
34 Glen Huntly Rd, Elwood. Ph: 0466 106 807
FOOD Mod cafe
HOURS Mon-Wed 7am-4pm, Thu-Fri 7am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-late
CHEF Yannick Beaucaine
BOOKINGS Evenings and for larger groups on weekdays only
TIME BETWEEN ORDERING AND EATING 32 minutes
PERFECT FOR Brunch in the sun
DESTINATION DISH Harissa scramble
NOISE LEVEL Buzzy
ONLINE agirlcalledjayne.com
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