delicious.100: Inverleigh’s Gladioli is one of Victoria’s best restaurants.

When Matt and Kate Dempsey opened Gladioli in Inverleigh’s main street five years ago, they created a destination diner.

Gladioli’s duck with turnip. Pictures: Andrew Tauber

GLADIOLI put Inverleigh on the map.

This country town beyond Geelong is still a wayside stop on the way to the Western District but the charming restaurant Matt and Kate Dempsey opened in its main street five years ago has become a destination diner. And for good reason.

Gladioli at Inverleigh.

Whether you opt for five or eight courses, Gladioli delivers on every front. Just look at the biodynamic bread that lands instantly with cultured butter. Then the baby artichoke stems, ready for dipping in macadamia cream.

Prawn with wild broccoli.

Potato in broth.

The menu descriptors — “prawn, wild broccoli, lemonade”, “potato, eel, brown onion” — barely hint at what’s to come. Turns out broccoli binds each prawn in a sort of green net while potato, wrapped in a nasturtium leaf, gains added savouriness from an onion broth. Not to mention layers of toasted quinoa crunch. Then there’s glazed duck, acquiring a pleasingly sour edge from native cranberries (muntries).

Delve into Gladioli’s cellar (Geelong pinots are especially well represented) and you’re sure to find a wine to suit. Or let one of Dempsey’s well-informed wait staff organise a set course wine match.

Gladioli is a destination diner.

“Quince, chocolate, almond” supplies a fine sweet finish, best followed by Assam tea and teeny candied waffles. In Inverleigh. Who would have thought?

Must eat dish: duck, turnip, muntries

GLADIOLI

14 High St, Inverleigh.

Ph: 5265 1111

gladiolirestaurant.com.au

Cuisine: contemporary

Chefs: Matt Dempsey, Tobin Kent

Price: more than $80 a person for two courses, food only

Bookings: yes

Open: Thu-Sun from noon, Wed-Sat from 6pm

Instagram: @gladioli1

This restaurant was ranked the 24th best restaurant in Victoria in the 2016 edition of the delicious.100.