delicious.100: Il Bacaro is one of Melbourne’s best restaurants.

TWENTY years young, Il Bacaro is still Melbourne’s most romantic restaurant.

Il Bacaro’s suckling pig rotolo. Pictures: Andrew Tauber

TWENTY years young, Il Bacaro is still Melbourne’s most romantic restaurant.

The lovely venetian-shaded room, anchored by its distinctive U-shaped bar, remains darkly glamorous — a place for flirting and quiet whispers — with intuitive waiters who know how to “read” diners’ body language: when to recite a “special”, remove a plate, and retreat.

Il Bacaro’s dining room features a u-shaped bar.

As for chef David Dellai’s food, its still a deft marriage of tradition and innovation. Pasta favourites such as chilli-flecked spaghettini with Moreton Bay bugs stand the test of time. But how easily we are seduced by rabbit tortellini — plump and perfect in their cradle of purple cabbage “paper” — and chestnut maltagliati, allied to wild mushrooms and dried buffalo curd.

Rabbit tortellini.

Ginger panna cotta.

Bacaro’s fish is superb. So is the bistecca con funghi. But Dellai’s king hit could well be his suckling pig rotolo, floating on a cloud of potato puree.

Il Bacaro can be a pricey affair, especially if you decide to probe its enticing Italian orientated wine list. But as ginger panna cottas are sent out and espressos land on white linen and shadows gather round every canoodling couple … who’s looking at the bill?

Must eat dish: suckling pig rotolo

IL BACARO

168-170 Little Collins St, city.

Ph: 9654 6778

ilbacaro.com.au

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: David Dellai

Price: more than $80 a person for two courses, food only

Bookings: yes

Open: Mon-Sat noon-3pm and 6pm-10.30pm

Instagram: @ilbacaromelbourne

This restaurant was ranked the 43rd best restaurant in Victoria in the 2016 edition of the delicious.100.