delicious.100: Grossi Florentino Grill is one of Melbourne’s best restaurants.

Grossi Florentino Grill has a new name and look, with a focussed dedication to the fare of Tuscany and an Asado grill in the kitchen for superb steaks.

Grossi Florentino Grill.

IT was out with the tablecloths and in with custom light fittings, brass features, handsome American oak floorboards — oh, and a stonking great Josper oven and Asado grill — when Florentino Grill reopened at the start of this year.

And with its new look came a focused dedication to the fare of Tuscany, where smaller dishes to start — a meaty terrine of silken rich decadence known as musetto, say, or caramelised nuggets of fennel-heavy pork sausages with pickled artichoke — segue seamlessly into out-of-the-norm pasta including fat ribbons of testaroli drizzled in olive oil, basil and parmigiana, or little pici twists tossed through wild boar ragout.

Grill in name and nature, steak remains an excellent option, that Asado delivering a glorious salted crust to one of five namechecked options. Service, led by Carlos Grossi, is as big-hearted and generous as the wine list is large, sharing a cellar as it does with the top-end-of-town magnet upstairs. Accessible, hospitable and genuinely welcoming, the new-look Grill has been born anew.

Must eat dish: testaroli pasta

GROSSI FLORENTINO GRILL

80 Bourke St, city.

Ph: 9662 1811

grossiflorentino.com

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Mario Di Natale

Price: between $41 and $80 a person for two courses, food only

Bookings: yes

Open: Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-late

Instagram: @grossiflorentino

This restaurant was ranked the 51st best restaurant in Victoria in the 2016 edition of the delicious.100.