delicious.100: George Calombaris’s The Press Club is one of Melbourne’s best restaurants.

Leather booths and high-shine embellishments dial up the opulence at The Press Club, George Calombaris’s intimate den of just 38 seats.

The Press Club’s lamb with parsnip. Picture: Andrew Tauber

ALL aboard the good ship Calombaris. Actually, make that luxury liner.

Leather booths and high-shine embellishments dial up the opulence favoured by Greek shipping magnates at his intimate den of just 38 seats.

The Press Club’s George Calombaris alongside his head chefs Reuben Davis and Alex Xinis.

It’s manned by slick staff keen to open your account with something from the cocktail trolley. Choose from a minimum of four dishes at night: perhaps perfectly cooked John Dory with an intense shiitake ketchup or a yielding mussel swimming in dill-flecked avgolemono. Later, dispense with the box of cutlery at your table to unpeg petit fours — “lamington” slices and marshmallows — from a fun-size Hills hoist.

Octopus with fava.

Lamingtons and marshmallows.

Whether it’s mod-Oz cuisine with Greek overtures or Greek food for Aussie palates matters not a jot. This fine diner has evolved into a well-rounded, accessible package with food that’s plain lick-the-plate tasty.

The Press Club’s intimate dining room.

A world-wise though Greek-leaning wine list, fine Zalto stemware, monogrammed linen and a bopping soundtrack from The Beatles to Bon Jovi adds to the appeal.

Must eat dish: lamb with parsnip and sheep’s curd

THE PRESS CLUB

72 Flinders St, city.

Ph: 9677 9677

thepressclub.com.au

Cuisine: Greek

Chefs: George Calombaris, Reuben Davis, Alex Xinis

Price: more than $80 a person for two courses, food only

Bookings: yes

Open: Mon-Fri noon-3pm and 6pm-10.30pm, Sat noon-3pm and 5pm-10.30pm

Instagram: @thepressclub

This restaurant was ranked the 10th best restaurant in Victoria in the 2016 edition of the delicious.100.