delicious.100: Geelong’s Igni is one of Victoria’s best restaurants.
Geelong’s Igni is so much more than the sum of its so-hot-right-now parts.
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THE return of the prodigal chef. The backstreet location. The wine list that champions the natural and the unknown. The lack of menu. The smoking and fermenting, curing and cooking over flames.
But Igni is so much more than the sum of its so-hot-right-now parts.
It’s driven by a room that’s spacious and supremely comfortable, fuelled by service genuinely warm and humbly unaffected, stoked by the best playlist in the land and completed by cooking that’s a refined, pitch-perfect celebration of produce backed by technique.
Whether an opener of fried chicken skin topped with whipped roe — one of a quintet of brilliant snacks — or a cheese course of goat’s granita, or a slice of Great Ocean duck that’s elegantly smoked and served with bracing finger limes, a meal at Igni is exciting yet approachable, innovative yet accessibly familiar.
The charcoal grill gets an expected but deftly delivered workout, imparting toasty, charry smokiness across five or eight courses to which an alluringly savoury apple and custard proves a fitting finale.
Aaron Turner is back. And how. Igni is on fire.
Must eat dish: cuttlefish celeriac
BEST NEW RESTAURANT: IGNI
Ryan Place, Geelong.
Ph: 5222 2266
Cuisine: contemporary
Chef: Aaron Turner
Price: more than $80 a person for two courses, food only
Bookings: yes
Open: Fri-Sat noon-1.30pm and 6pm-8.30pm, Thu from 6pm
Instagram: @restaurantigni
This restaurant was ranked the 4th best restaurant in Victoria in the 2016 edition of the delicious.100.