delicious.100: Fitzroy North’s Matteo’s is one of Melbourne’s best restaurants.

MATTEO’S has held court over the “quiet” end of Brunswick St for more than 20 years but with a new chef at the helm, the restaurant has had a fresh start.

Matteo's Chinese duck. Pictures: Nicole Cleary

FOR more than two decades Matteo’s has held court over the “quiet” end of Brunswick St; a study in draped elegance, old world charm and the fundamentals of hospitality chiselled from a time when restaurateurs ruled and customers came first.

But that’s not to say Matteo’s is old. Quite the opposite. With a new chef at the helm — Buddha Lo — Matteo Pignatelli has given his eponymous restaurant life anew.

Matteo's has long held court at the “quiet” end of Brunswick St.

The broad French-Japanese of years past has been updated with a keener Asian focus, where such dishes as General Tso’s fried quail — a generous and cheeky take on san choy bao — and a brilliant prawn laksa ravioli are the opening acts for crisp-roasted duck (pictured above) served with duck neck sausage, say, or blushingly pink lamb teamed with miso-spiked eggplant.

John dory.

1000 layer cake.

That dessert might feature corn flake ice cream shows the kitchen’s youthful humour; that the wine list is one of best — and best value — found in the state shows experience and smarts gleaned over the years. Matteo’s has long been the complete package; it now comes with even more delicious.

Must eat dish: General Tso’s fried quail

MATTEO’S

533 Brunswick St, Fitzroy North.

Ph: 9481 1177

matteos.com.au

Cuisine: contemporary

Chef: Buddha Lo

Price: between $41 and $80 a person for two courses, food only

Bookings: Yes

Open: daily noon-3pm, 6pm-late (closed Sat lunch)

Instagram: @matteosrest

This restaurant was ranked the 15th best restaurant in Victoria in the 2016 edition of the delicious.100.