delicious.100: Cumulus Inc is one of Melbourne’s best restaurants.

CUMULUS Inc is Melbourne’s ultimate all rounder … a perfect pit stop for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Smoked mackerel on brioche; house-made crumpets and a whole flounder on the bone. Pictures: Kylie Else

CUMULUS Inc is Melbourne’s ultimate all rounder … a perfect pit stop for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

And whenever you visit, expect unfailingly friendly, well-informed service. Going early? Then you’re urged to have Cumulus Bircher muesli — one of the best in town — or the divine crumpets saturated with Rooftop Honey.

House-made crumpets with whipped ricotta and rooftop honey

Take lunch at the kitchen bar if possible. That way you can watch Andrew McConnell’s brigade at work while you savour mackerel on brioche or oysters with your vermentino.

The Cumulus Inc chefs behind the kitchen bar.

Cumulus dispenses with entrees and mains. Divided into charcuterie, salads and comestibles, and fish and meat, the all-day menu can take you from a warming chestnut soup with crispy duck to smoked brisket and kohlrabi, or a chopped broccoli salad with walnut and anchovy.

At night, when warm light softens its hard industrial wedges, Cumulus encourages share dishes. Whole flounder, perhaps, or the eye-popping roast shoulder of lamb.

Cumulus Inc’s dining room

To finish? Got to be a Cumulus madeleine, baked to order and oozing lemon curd.

Must eat dish: homemade crumpets

CUMULUS INC

45 Flinders Lane, city.

Ph: 9650 1445

cumulusinc.com.au

Cuisine: contemporary

Chef: Andrew McConnell

Price: between $41 and $80 a person for two courses, food only

Bookings: Lunch only

Open: Mon-Fri 7am-11pm, Sat-Sun 8am-late

Instagram: @cumulusinc

This restaurant was ranked the 66th best restaurant in Victoria in the 2016 edition of the delicious.100.