delicious.100: Becco is one of Melbourne’s best restaurants.

CAN it really be 20 years since Becco opened behind Pellegrini’s? Sure can. And this sophisticated Italian bistro is wearing well.

Becco’s duck leg breast with pickled radicchio. Pictures: Rebecca Michael

CAN it really be 20 years since Becco opened behind Pellegrini’s?

Sure can. And this sophisticated Italian bistro is wearing well. Rather like the men who saunter down Crossley St to have their suits fitted at tailors nearby.

Becco.

Start at the bar — one of the loveliest in Melbourne — where swishy Bellinis can be matched with superior “cicchetti” (snacks): mixed olives, arancini balls and San Daniele prosciutto.

Then step into the tiered dining room — another engaging mid-century space where vibrant tiles add pops of colour. Becco has always looked smart, backed by properly attired waiters who know the “specials” inside out.

If you’re lucky, they’ll be reciting the joys of bollito misto, a fragrant brew of boiled meats drifting in a shallow ceramic bowl. Otherwise, dive into Becco’s main menu, which can run to spaghettini vongole, slow-cooked oxtail and a perfect minute steak with garlic puree.

Bollito misto.

Panna cotta.

But, come on, you’ve ordered a fabulous $72 nebbiolo from Piedmont. Surely that calls for pan cooked duck breast in a muscatel and grappa jus?

“Bombe Alaska for 2” is justly renowned but don’t overlook a panna cotta fenced in with shards of raspberry “glass”. Becco at its best.

Must eat dish: duck breast with pickled radicchio

BECCO

11-25 Crossley St, city.

Ph: 9663 3000

becco.com.au

Cuisine: Italian

Chef: Carmine Mari

Price: between $41 and $80 a person for two courses, food only

Bookings: yes

Open: Mon-Fri noon-3pm, Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm

Instagram: @beccorestaurant

This restaurant was ranked the 41st best restaurant in Victoria in the 2016 edition of the delicious.100.