Coda

When this basement diner opened in 2009, its ‘mod Asian’ moniker sounded decidedly exotic but Coda doesn’t need that descriptor anymore.

The dishes change regularly at Coda, inspired by several Asian cuisines.

Basement, 141 Flinders Lane, Melbourne

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codarestaurant.com.au

When this basement diner opened in 2009, its ‘mod Asian’ moniker sounded decidedly exotic but Coda doesn’t need that descriptor anymore.

Its ever-changing dishes, devised by peripatetic chef Adam D’Sylva, slip between culinary boundaries like those long boats you see in Vietnam – here a Javanese curry, there a Saigon cutlet with French accents (pomme frites and fromage) along the way.

Coda’s XO fried rice – hot out of the wok with abalone and chives – is cold-day comfort food; blackened quail with witlof and celery just made for summer nights.

And the crispy tapioca and prawn betel leaf with kaffir lime and green chilli? Enjoy it year round.

The $65 set menu is both a cost-saver and a snapshot of Coda at its best. Service? Spot on. Especially if you’re propped at the bar and getting the benefit of real booze knowledge.

Must-eat dish: Goolwa pipis, soy butter, dill and bottarga

Cuisine: South East Asian

Chef: Adam D’Sylva, Henri Budiman

Price: $$

Bookings: Yes

BYO: No

Open: Lunch and dinner daily

Instagram: @codamelbourne